Homebrew PCBs

Hi Stefan,

THe printer is an HP2200dse.  

I will trace out the traces backwards from the power connect for the 
fuser.  I looked over you schematic and I think I see what is going 
on and what to look for.  If needed, I will post some pictures of 
the PCB if I get lost, but I think I understand it.  

BTW, is this isolator needed for the same reason I needed one on my 
spindle driver that fried my computer last year?




--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Stefan Trethan" 
<stefan_trethan@g...> wrote:
>
> What model/brand printer is that?
> 
> About the solid state relais, the right triac must be right 
between one of  
> the fuser lamp wires and mains power, so if you follow the wires 
you must  
> hit it. Check the part number if it is a triac to be sure. By 
following  
> the third leg of the triac (usually with a thinner trace going to 
it) you  
> must hit the optocoupler. Best to take out the whole board, 
there's  
> usually a resistor between opto and mains you'll need. Ideally 
trace the  
> circuit from the opto output the the triac and associated 
components so  
> you know how you need to assemble it later on. The triac mightn't 
have a  
> heatsink.
> 
> You'll also need some form of low power DC supply like 5V or 12V 
or  
> whatever for the thermostat, so if there are components in there 
you like,  
> take them.
> 
> There's a old writeup about the fuser at  
> <http://trethan.at.tf/pub/fuser/fuser_as_laminator.html>, it's 
over a year  
> old and full of typos, maybe i'll get around to update it one of 
these  
> days. But basically you see the most simple circuit you need to 
put on the  
> opto input, the opto output and triac stuff is best left like it 
was in  
> the printer.
> 
> ST
> 
> 
> On Fri, 02 Dec 2005 18:57:10 +0100, lcdpublishing  
> <lcdpublishing@y...> wrote:
> 
> > There are a number of large components on the Circuit board near 
the
> >
> > connection point to the fuser.  Several, what I believe are solid
> >
> > state relays - a triac w/heatsink (I think), some transformers 
etc.
> >
> >
> > The optocoupler I am not sure of.  There are a number of opto-
> >
> > switches (the slotted devices used to sense something between
> >
> > them).  I don't think this is what you are referring to though 
so I
> >
> > will study the PCB some more to see if I Can find something that
> >
> > looks like an Optoisolater chip.
> >
> >
> > On the fuser itself, there are the power wires going in one end 
of
> >
> > the unit.  On the opposite end, there are two groups of wires 
going
> >
> > in - I am assuming one of those two sets of wires is the
> >
> > thermostat.  I didn't want to mess with it too much till I found 
out
> >
> > what I should be keeping and such.
> >
> >
> > The unit seems to accept a PCB board without trouble and by 
turning
> >
> > the shaft by hand, it will pass right through.
> >
> >
> > I do have a photo-type thermometer that I use all the time around
> >
> > the shop - goes up to 400 degrees F so that should work good.  I
> >
> > will have to scrounge a motor somewhere.  It is winter here now 
so
> >
> > the retailers have all the grill stuff packed away - but, with
> >
> > Christmas getting close, as soon as that is over, the summer 
stuff
> >
> > will be back on the shelves again.
>