Homebrew PCBs

I do move the iron, butonly when the board is too big to just leave 
it in one spot...

The way I do this is tolay a sheet of plain white paper over the 
press-n-peel  

Then start by holding the iron in one spot with my right habd.

I then push down on the sheet of paper (where it is not over the 
board) which seems to lock everything in place..

I then move the iron round slowly, keeping my pressureon the paper..

I think it'simportant to have the paper when moving the iron, it 
stops the tranfer sliding on the board.

Also, the times have to be increased proportionally to compensate

I do allmy boards this way, I don't have any small enough to do with 
the iron stationary.

Cheers

Chris

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "andrew566020" 
<andy.jrhall@b...> wrote:
>
> Hi Chris,
> 
> Thanks for helping with my question. That's two votes for using an
> iron. Mike also responded saying he has success with the 'iron
> method'. I guess that I'll do some experimentation for myself and 
see
> how I get on.
> 
> Do you move the iron around (as if ironing a shirt) or do you apply
> heat and pressure in one place for a while then lift and move the 
iron
> somewhere else?
> 
> Best wishes and thanks,
> 
> Andy.
> 
> 
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Chris Horne" <chris@s...> 
wrote:
> >
> > Hi, 
> > 
> > If its any help, I can only relate what I do.
> > 
> > I do a dozen or so 8" x 5.5" boards a week and I still use an 
Iron..
> > the same one my wife uses to do the ironing.
> > (more important toys to buy !)
> > 
> > I use an HP 1010 laser at 600 dpi to print on press-n-peel sheets
> > it works a treat... --- 
> > 
> > I clean the boards with 600 wet and dry, rinse and dry them
> > 
> > Then iron on (middle steam heat, without the heat)
> > with a single sheet of ordinary white paper between the iron and 
> > press-n-peel.. I iron for about 1.5 minutes
> > 
> > Then quench under the tap and peel the sheet off
> > 
> > The process work fine for the boards I do, I get 98% success rate
> > and I'm not going to mess with a process that works !
> > 
> > The biggest pain was hand drilling the holes..
> > if you are doing Fibreglass, you need to buy carbide bits
> > 
> > I use mostly paper boards but still use carbide bits, they last 
10's 
> > of times longer.
> > 
> > Chris
> > 
> > In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "andrew566020" 
<andy.jrhall@b...> 
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi,
> > > 
> > > I'm about to attempt my first homemade pcb after many years of 
> > using
> > > breadboards and veroboard for my electronics tinkering!
> > > 
> > > I've recently joined the group and have been avidly reading 
the 
> > recent
> > > posts and the archives. I do however have a few questions...
> > > 
> > > Many of the posts I've read advise against the use of an iron 
and
> > > recommend a laminator instead. Because of this I went looking 
for a
> > > suitable model. It struck me that many of the laminators for 
sale 
> > were
> > > quoting maximum thicknesses of 250 micron (1/4 mm), this 
doesn't 
> > seem
> > > nearly enough capacity, am I missing something?
> > > 
> > > Also I intend buying a laser printer. The HP laserjet 1022 is 
a 
> > budget
> > > model that is reputed to have high quality output. Would this 
be a
> > > reasonable starting place or should I look elsewhere.
> > > 
> > > Sorry for the dumb questions but I really am at the bottom of 
this
> > > learning curve so any help would be welcome..
> > > 
> > > Regards,
> > > 
> > > Andy.
> > >
> >
>