Hey Malte, it's a Tadiran lithium inorganic battery 1/6th "D" size, 3.6V 1700mah, part number TL-5135/P (if no "P or "LP" might not be the version with pins on the bottom, please double check even off these links I sent before ordering, okay?) , get that thing off your pc board before it starts to leak:) They no longer make the ones with really long pins but the pins on the current 5135P ones will workThese batteries are rated to self-discharge over a 10 year shelf life so a couple of years old isn't so bad but the pictures in these ads show 2005, which would be just about to expire! (yes, they may last longer buy why go through the trauma for just a couple of years life when you could get nearly a decade) so stronly recommend to get the manufactured date from whomever you buy it from first.
this place has them at $9.75 each not sure on shipping to Poland:http://www.tnrbatteries.com/tatl17.html
this place is $12 USD for the part and looks like 16 Euros to ship to Europe, 3 days shipping it says.http://www.sabahoceanic.com/epages/sabahoceanic.sf/en_US/?ObjectPath=/Shops/sabahoceanic/Products/14080006
$11.25 each USD unkown shippinghttp://www.newark.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?SKU=27C7062&CMP=AFC-TL10000001
this place is $14.95 shipped but they'll only ship to the US, which sucks:http://store.batteryspecialists.com/tl5135.html
Holy crap! $7.30 USD from DigiKey. Think that might be where I got them, can't see shipping on the page, but check with them to see if they ship internationally and such. Hope they will, because they're really reliable people to buy parts from.
Again, please confirm the year because it would all be for not if the part is too old or has little life left.
Did more than one of these at one time and it it was a little tricky so thought I'd (re) share the nuances of my experience with it (again), in case it should be helpful. Can't be liable (Lithium can leak or explode when heated, definitely explode on contact with water, etc, just like cell phone batteries, etc)so take on at your own peril, but I have done a bunch of these and still alive:) Just saying please be careful and do all at your own risk please.
Recommend put the Q133 pcb into a vise(with a small strip of carboard (non-conductive, protective) on either side of where the board plugs into the bus, have good lighting and eye protection or I ideally a full face sheild in case the lithium battery leaks or worse, a glove for the hand that'll be pulling the battery. It's tricky because 3 pins and though you could wire wrap if a solder trace picked up from to much heat, still it's weird to remove. I used a soldering iron at 730 degrees F, flowed a good little bit of solder onto each post first, then grasping the battery with my left hand heated down by the solder glob/pcb of two posts at a time, while very gently but constantly pulling extremely lightly -- so the very instant the beefed up solder flowed on the heated pins they became loose, then immediately engaged the other pin plus one of the existing pins, getting it a little further, then back to the other two so basically the disc was rotating
way from the board by your hand (very, very extremely gently pulling only when the solder is flowing and it's loose) with the opposite mosting of a a coin dropped onto a counter-top, gradually rotating away from the pcb with the soldering iron alternating between the 2 of the 3 leads.
Key focus being minimum of heat to the leads/PCB to the traces don't lift up, but again enough so it flows versus just pulling, again so traces don't get pulled up.
It only took about 3 alternations of the iron to get one pin all the way out in some cases, sometimes the whole thing, depending on luck, then when I heated the other two (after flowing a bit more solder onto them) they slid right out. Then flow a little solder into all three holes, heat and put the solder sucker to them each one at a time, and voila! you've got a new looking pcb, hopefully, well after you use a little flux remover and a q-tip to clean up the muck.
recommend inspect surrounding capacitors, resistors and such for possible acid damage because it's safer and easier to replace them before the battery if you need to, then put the new battery into the holes (it only goes one way) solder it in and you're good.
If you I left anything out or you get stuck or mess up, I'd be happy to try to help if I can.probably the more nuances of repairs we share here, the more people it will help.
btw, does does anyone have a detailed intuitive (for a lay person that really would like to put new parts in but the very right ones) complete "parts list" for the Q133-R6-CR? or the series? (found the schematics a little vague on details, the parts labels in some cases (like C17) (CR4 and 5 too faded too read on a black background)ideally the complete list for the whole board (in a dream, for all the boards IIX and III) that would be a really really cool reference tool if accurate and complete, by rev number
or can you confirm
resistorsR16 100kohm?R13
capacitorsC16C17
diodesCR4CR5
on the Q133 R6 -CR
or any line on a good source for the low profile metallic blue 47 microfarad 25 volt philips capacitors that line this and other pcb's? there's a"T" on the packaging but it doesn't look like a tantalum capacitor
Each line of text, around the electrolytic looking capacitor, reads:
47ยต T,25VPhilips030K0S 7 (probably inconsequential)
does it matter if a cap rated at 35V is used? It looks like there are different performance ratings by types of caps, some say audio, some say general use, don't want to use anything that would cause anything to fall out of spec, even maybe
can anyone advise, please on detailed intuitive (for this novice user) specs and or a source, I guess the part of philips that made these was bought by Vishay but don't see a compatible part number?
Thanks in all cases and hope the removal/desoldering tips help. Glenn
--- On Sat, 11/7/09, Malte Rogacki <gacki@gacki.sax.de> wrote:
Show quoted textHide quoted text
From: Malte Rogacki <gacki@gacki.sax.de>
Subject: [Fairlight-CMI] Q133 battery
To: Fairlight-CMI@yahoogroups.com
Date: Saturday, November 7, 2009, 3:15 AM
Hello everyone;
I assume the battery on the Q133 stores the date and time settings in the
Series III. Since my machine has started "forget" those settings each time
it is powered down I guess it's time to change the battery.
However this seems to be a sort of sepcial 3.6V lithium type that isn't
exactly common.
Two questions:
1. Does anybody know the exact type and where to obtain it?
2. Could the battery possibly be replaced with a CR2032 or something
similar? The CR2032 is just 3V, though; however I have had good experiences
with it in other synths.
Thanks and best regards,
--
Malte Rogacki