Digital BW, The Print

I am building a print viewing cubicle for both black and white and color prints made primarily 
from Epson, inkjet printers (2200, 2400, 4800). I believe I can build one for much less than it 
would cost to purchase a ready-made set up. I've searched here and so far haven't found a 
thread that would help me specify and locate a vender who could sell me florescent fixtures 
of the correct color temp for optimum viewing. I'm hoping to find the small (energy efficient) 
4' florescents. I talked to a rep at Phillips and one at GE as well. They had no idea as to what 
to recommend. Said I had to be more specific. Can anyone here help me be "more specific?"

Many thanks,
King Dexter

These guys should be able to help you. I've found them very
knowledgeable and helpful. Their prices are also very low and they
ship regularly all over the country.

http://www.atlantalightbulbs.com/


John





--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "kingdex1"
<king@k...> wrote:
>
> I am building a print viewing cubicle for both black and white and
color prints made primarily 
> from Epson, inkjet printers (2200, 2400, 4800). I believe I can
build one for much less than it 
> would cost to purchase a ready-made set up. I've searched here and
so far haven't found a 
> thread that would help me specify and locate a vender who could sell
me florescent fixtures 
> of the correct color temp for optimum viewing. I'm hoping to find
the small (energy efficient) 
> 4' florescents. I talked to a rep at Phillips and one at GE as well.
They had no idea as to what 
> to recommend. Said I had to be more specific. Can anyone here help
me be "more specific?"

> 
> Many thanks,
> King Dexter
>

King - you would have to decide first what your standard will be for a
viewing lamp's color temperature.  Many of viewing booths and light tables
that you could buy pre-made will utilize D50 (or 5000 degrees Kelvin)
illumination.  If you look in catalogues or web sites that sell the fixtures
that use these lamps (Light Impressions and Calumet come to mind) you may
find that they list replacement bulbs in different sizes that you could use.


Stephen Petegorsky
petegorsky@...
www.spphoto.com

--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "kingdex1"
<king@k...> wrote:
>
> I am building a print viewing cubicle for both black and white and
color prints 

[snip]

> to recommend. Said I had to be more specific. Can anyone here help
me be "more specific?"

Sure. Is this specific enough?

DO NOT BUY A COMMERCIAL FIXTURE!

OK, I know that's shouting. It needs to be shouted.

There are weird "energy saving" laws in both Europe and the US that
require all commercial fixtures to be set up with ballasts that do not
run the bulbs at 100% "ballast factor". The ballast factor is
basically the percentage of rated power you're going to attempt to
drive the lamp to produce. Lower ballast factors (70% is typical)
cause fluorescent tubes (even the best, most exotic tubes) to have the
wrong color temperature, and lower CRI (color rendition index, the
number that tells you how accurately you can judge and compare colors
under that light) than they're rated for.

That's one reason commercial print viewing booths cost so much,
because the people who make them know how to get around this problem.

Fortunately, there is a high quality, low cost solution. It involves
scrounging stuff from at least two different sources, and the
knowledge and ability to rewire a fluorescent light fixture. If you
don't have this knowledge and ability, trade some prints or
photographic services with someone who does. This isn't printmaking,
where the greatest danger is an ink stain or a paper cut. This is
electricity. Horrible things happen when you don't know what you're
doing. People die, houses burn, etc.

One more time. If you don't have the skills to do this wiring safely,
get someone who does.

To get high CRI fluorescents to deliver the high CRI that they were
actually built for, you have to learn about the weird world of
"overdrive" ballasts. Typically, an overdrive ballast drives the bulbs
past their rated power (I use about 130% drive in the blacklights for
my alternative process work and my blacklight bodypainting). But I
found a nice $19 ballast, the GE/Universal B432I120RH, that is built
to drive four T-8 bulbs, and will happily run less bulbs at a higher
ballast factor. With three bulbs, you get a 94% ballast factor. Let's
call that "near overdrive". It's not a perfect 100% drive, but it's
close enough to get the bulbs up close to their rated CRI. As an added
bonus, you can get it off-the-shelf from places like Home Depot.

Unlike other overdrive solutions, GE actually approves the B432I120RH
for 3 bulb use.

http://www.gelighting.com/na/business_lighting/education_resources/literature_library/ballast/downloads/specs/Electronic_Fluorescent/Other_T8/B432IxxxRH-A.pdf

There are other ballasts that can give you a perfect 100% ballast
factor, but the cheapest I know of is $45 for a 2 bulb ballast.

Also, at Home Depot, get 3 bulb T-8 fixtures. Those will have cheap
and crappy ballasts. Discard the ballasts. Save the sockets (and
plenty of wire). Get wire-nuts, you'll need them. The wire in a
fluorescent fixture isn't like off-the-shelf wire from Home Depot.
It's got 1000V insulation. This is necessary to start the bulbs
without arcing. Do not substitute other wire.

The bulb is a F32T8/TL950 Philips 4 foot T-8 (1 inch high efficiency)
32W 5000K CRI 98 (near perfect color rendering) bulbs. These are not
availiable at home depot, but are availiable at any decent electrical
supply. I get mine at Allen Electric (which doesn't help you, unless
you live in the western suburbs of Detroit) when I want a local
source. When I feel like ordering 4 foot fluorescents on-line, I get
them from bulbs.com, who only sells them in a case of 25. Three per
fixture.

My viewing area (it's not a "box") uses two complete fixtures (6
bulbs, 200w total) hanging low over the workbench. The rest of my work
area is lit by two more 3 bulb fixtures, in exactly the same
"overdrive" configuration. Not only are the Philips bulbs perfect for
viewing prints, but they're supposed to be so close to sunlight that
they make you feel good. Does this work? I'm not sure. I think so. It
could be a placebo effect. ;)

I also use them in "cold hot lights", 8 bulbs per 2 foot x 4 foot
panel. That's why I can consume a case of 25 ;)

One last time. If you don't have the skills to do this wiring safely,
get someone who does. There's only one kind of wiring advice you
should take from some faceless guy off the Internet, and that's "get
professional help with the wiring".

--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "john dean"
<deanwork2003@y...> wrote:
>
> These guys should be able to help you. I've found them very
> knowledgeable and helpful. Their prices are also very low and they
> ship regularly all over the country.
> 
> http://www.atlantalightbulbs.com/

Cool. They will sell small quantities of bulbs. 

Their prices are a bit higher than bulbs.com, but bulbs.com will only
sell 4 foot high CRI fluorescents by the case of 25, and not everyone
needs $170 worth of fluorescent bulbs cluttering up their shop.

Here's the "gold standard" for viewing booths, the F32T8/TL950

http://www.atlantalightbulbs.com/ecart/10Browse.asp

Koloshor:  (Is that your name?)

What are the 2 bulb ballasts and other 100% ballast factor ballasts that you
know of?

Thanks,

Bill Morse

Wm. Morse Editions
450 Harrison Ave. Studio 227
Boston, MA 02118
(617) 429-3298

 www.MorseEditions.com

PS- Please note new email and web address


on 1/9/06 2:38 PM, koloshor wrote:

> There are other ballasts that can give you a perfect 100% ballast
> factor, but the cheapest I know of is $45 for a 2 bulb ballast.




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, Bill Morse
<whm.lists@v...> wrote:
>
> Koloshor:  (Is that your name?)

Hi Bill. Joseph is my name. Koloshor is a title, something to do with
saving the universe a while back.

> What are the 2 bulb ballasts and other 100% ballast factor ballasts
that you
> know of?

Tridonic makes a wonderful $70 2 bulb ballast (can't remember the
number, and the Tridonic website is a mess) that are programmable, so
you can view your work under a variety of conditions. They were a
really great ballast, performance wise, but I got rid of mine because
they jammed half the remote control devices in the house. 

Advance makes a good $40 ballast. If you're an international traveler,
their Centium ballasts run on anything from 110-277v, 50-400Hz.

RCN-3P32-SC drives a pair of 32W T8 to 102%
RCN-4P32-SC drives three 32W T8 to 100%

ICN-3P32-SC and ICN-4P32-SC can do the same trick, but are dimmable.
About $7 per ballast.

Howard Industries (availaible in single units at bulbs.com)has
several, and they're actually quite reasonable, about $20 for a 3 bulb
ballast.

The high drive ballasts are their EH series. You probably don't want
those, they are 114% ballast factor, and your bulbs will definitely be
off color and CRI.

It's probably better to use the standard ballasts, with less bulbs.
Use a single bulb on an E2 two bulb ballast, two bulbs on an E3 three
bulb ballast, etc. Howard specs them to work that way.

E2/32IS-120 will drive a single 32 watt T8 to 102%.
E3/32IS-120 will drive two 32 watt T8 to 103%.
E4/32IS-120 will drive three 32 watt T8 to 98%.

The Howards have to be bought in either a 110 or 220 version, you
can't just jump from country to country with them. On the other hand,
they are current regulated, they will also drive shorter or longer T-8
bulbs, from 2 foot 17 watt to 5 foot 40 watt.

Hi Joseph-
Thanks so much for the great info (are these lists cool or what?)

Bill

on 1/10/06 10:13 AM, koloshor wrote:

> --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, Bill Morse
> <whm.lists@v...> wrote:
>> >
>> > Koloshor:  (Is that your name?)
> 
> Hi Bill. Joseph is my name. Koloshor is a title, something to do with
> saving the universe a while back.
> 
>> > What are the 2 bulb ballasts and other 100% ballast factor ballasts
> that you
>> > know of?
> 
> Tridonic makes a wonderful $70 2 bulb ballast (can't remember the
> number, and the Tridonic website is a mess) that are programmable, so
> you can view your work under a variety of conditions. They were a
> really great ballast, performance wise, but I got rid of mine because
> they jammed half the remote control devices in the house.
> 
> Advance makes a good $40 ballast. If you're an international traveler,
> their Centium ballasts run on anything from 110-277v, 50-400Hz.
> 
> RCN-3P32-SC drives a pair of 32W T8 to 102%
> RCN-4P32-SC drives three 32W T8 to 100%
> 
> ICN-3P32-SC and ICN-4P32-SC can do the same trick, but are dimmable.
> About $7 per ballast.
> 
> Howard Industries (availaible in single units at bulbs.com)has
> several, and they're actually quite reasonable, about $20 for a 3 bulb
> ballast.
> 
> The high drive ballasts are their EH series. You probably don't want
> those, they are 114% ballast factor, and your bulbs will definitely be
> off color and CRI.
> 
> It's probably better to use the standard ballasts, with less bulbs.
> Use a single bulb on an E2 two bulb ballast, two bulbs on an E3 three
> bulb ballast, etc. Howard specs them to work that way.
> 
> E2/32IS-120 will drive a single 32 watt T8 to 102%.
> E3/32IS-120 will drive two 32 watt T8 to 103%.
> E4/32IS-120 will drive three 32 watt T8 to 98%.
> 
> The Howards have to be bought in either a 110 or 220 version, you
> can't just jump from country to country with them. On the other hand,
> they are current regulated, they will also drive shorter or longer T-8
> bulbs, from 2 foot 17 watt to 5 foot 40 watt.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please visit the Group Homepage to check the Files, and other resources as
> they are often being updated.
> 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint
> 
> If you wish to receive no emails or just a daily digest, or you wish to
> unsubscribe, please edit your Membership preferences by visiting this same
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> 
> Please follow these basic guidelines:
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> printing. Users who persistently make off-topic posts may be removed from the
> membership.
> - By posting on this forum you agree to abide by the group rules and
> guidelines, and to abide by the actions and decisions of the group Owner and
> Moderators. See “Group Topic, Rules and Guidelines” in the Files section:
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> 
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> 




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I want to echo Bill's thanks. I posted my first inquiry re this topic two days ago and WOW! 
What a great response. I'm trying to digest all the "electrical speak" and hope to build a 
reliable source within which to preview/view my B&W (some color) ink jet prints.

Many thanks to all who helped (and of course to the administrators).
King


--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, Bill Morse <whm.lists@v...> 
wrote:
>
> Hi Joseph-
> Thanks so much for the great info (are these lists cool or what?)
> 
> Bill
> 
> on 1/10/06 10:13 AM, koloshor wrote:
> 
> > --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, Bill Morse
> > <whm.lists@v...> wrote:
> >> >
> >> > Koloshor:  (Is that your name?)
> > 
> > Hi Bill. Joseph is my name. Koloshor is a title, something to do with
> > saving the universe a while back.
> > 
> >> > What are the 2 bulb ballasts and other 100% ballast factor ballasts
> > that you
> >> > know of?
> > 
> > Tridonic makes a wonderful $70 2 bulb ballast (can't remember the
> > number, and the Tridonic website is a mess) that are programmable, so
> > you can view your work under a variety of conditions. They were a
> > really great ballast, performance wise, but I got rid of mine because
> > they jammed half the remote control devices in the house.
> > 
> > Advance makes a good $40 ballast. If you're an international traveler,
> > their Centium ballasts run on anything from 110-277v, 50-400Hz.
> > 
> > RCN-3P32-SC drives a pair of 32W T8 to 102%
> > RCN-4P32-SC drives three 32W T8 to 100%
> > 
> > ICN-3P32-SC and ICN-4P32-SC can do the same trick, but are dimmable.
> > About $7 per ballast.
> > 
> > Howard Industries (availaible in single units at bulbs.com)has
> > several, and they're actually quite reasonable, about $20 for a 3 bulb
> > ballast.
> > 
> > The high drive ballasts are their EH series. You probably don't want
> > those, they are 114% ballast factor, and your bulbs will definitely be
> > off color and CRI.
> > 
> > It's probably better to use the standard ballasts, with less bulbs.
> > Use a single bulb on an E2 two bulb ballast, two bulbs on an E3 three
> > bulb ballast, etc. Howard specs them to work that way.
> > 
> > E2/32IS-120 will drive a single 32 watt T8 to 102%.
> > E3/32IS-120 will drive two 32 watt T8 to 103%.
> > E4/32IS-120 will drive three 32 watt T8 to 98%.
> > 
> > The Howards have to be bought in either a 110 or 220 version, you
> > can't just jump from country to country with them. On the other hand,
> > they are current regulated, they will also drive shorter or longer T-8
> > bulbs, from 2 foot 17 watt to 5 foot 40 watt.
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > Please visit the Group Homepage to check the Files, and other resources as
> > they are often being updated.
> > 
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint
> > 
> > If you wish to receive no emails or just a daily digest, or you wish to
> > unsubscribe, please edit your Membership preferences by visiting this same
> > page.
> > 
> > Please follow these basic guidelines:
> > - As threads develop, trim off excess portions of earlier messages to keep
> > them short.
> > - Good manners are required at all time. No personal attacks or flames.
> > Hostile, aggressive or argumentative users may be removed from the membership
> > without notice.
> > - Keep your posts and threads related to the group topic of digital B&W
> > printing. Users who persistently make off-topic posts may be removed from the
> > membership.
> > - By posting on this forum you agree to abide by the group rules and
> > guidelines, and to abide by the actions and decisions of the group Owner and
> > Moderators. See "Group Topic, Rules and Guidelines" in the Files section:
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint/files/
> > 
> > BY PARTICIPATING IN AND/OR POSTING MESSAGES TO THE DIGITAL BW, THE PRINT
> > YAHOO! GROUP YOU EXPRESSLY UNDERSTAND AND AGREE THAT THE "OWNER" AND
> > "MODERATORS" OF DIGITAL BW, THE PRINT YAHOO GROUP SHALL NOT BE LIABLE TO 
YOU
> > FOR ANY DIRECT, INDIRECT, INCIDENTAL, SPECIAL, CONSEQUENTIAL OR EXEMPLARY
> > DAMAGES, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DAMAGES FOR LOSS OF PROFITS, 
GOODWILL,
> > USE, DATA OR OTHER INTANGIBLE LOSSES (EVEN IF THE  "OWNER" AND 
"MODERATORS" OF
> > DIGITAL BW, THE PRINT YAHOO GROUP HAVE BEEN ADVISED OF THE POSSIBILITY OF 
SUCH
> > DAMAGES), RESULTING FROM: (i) THE USE OR THE INABILITY TO USE THE DIGITAL BW,
> > THE PRINT YAHOO GROUP; (ii) UNAUTHORIZED ACCESS TO OR ALTERATION OF YOUR
> > TRANSMISSIONS OR DATA; (iii) STATEMENTS OR CONDUCT OF ANY THIRD PARTY ON 
THE
> > DIGITAL BW, THE PRINT YAHOO GROUP; OR (iv) ANY OTHER MATTER RELATING TO 
THE
> > DIGITAL BW, THE PRINT YAHOO GROUP.
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS
> > 
> > *  Visit your group "DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint
> > <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint> " on the web.
> > *  
> > *  To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > *  DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com?
subject=Unsub

> > scribe> 
> > *  
> > *  Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service
> > <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> .
> > 
> > 
> > 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>