Digital BW, The Print

Hi again Mark,
I must not have gotten what was said originally .. I'm seeing something totally different now. I just saw David's last post.. I'm in agreement. Remember that the paper can breath and move while it's hanging.. This seems to be that the coating is failing over time or if their looking like small surface pops then their just finishing working their way loose from the job expanding contracting etc..
This behavior I've seen a lot of on canvas that is not coated. Also note that you said the curl is bumping the plexi in the center.. So the ink side is stretching and the back side is contracting.. Do you flatten your prints for your clients? (I mean really flatten them)..  Do you tube them? What size tubes? If the print is not flattened then the curl memory will live in the piece forever unless it gets exposed to enough humidity to remove it.. That curl amounts to an internal stress.. and I think it would be logical to say that the ink receptor layer and inks probably get more brittle over time or exposure to light. If the curl stress is still there then it's starting to make some sense maybe..
You may have just gotten a bad roll of stock.. Who knows.. 


jimbo
 ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Mark Savoia 
  To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, July 05, 2011 12:55 PM
  Subject: Re: [Digital BW] Print "cracking" issue


    
  The print is 60" horizontal, the framers says he did hinges about every 12" or so, he uses archival cloth with wheat paste. I kind of wish the issue was only at those points but it is only happening at the two corner ones and of course the "cracks" in the middle of the image have nothing behind them. The "cracks" in the middle also do not go horizontally across the print, more of a diagonal.

  When I say buckle I think I should have been clearer, the print curves out in the middle from the top and touches the glass, I also think it is the weight of it or the fact that the paper might be remembering its curl from the roll stock. At the bottom of the print it is flush to the backing board again.

  Best way I can describe what the "cracks" look like is small splashes of white ink (paper color), no repeating pattern. If it was a piece of film I might even say it looks like static marks from shooting and winding film in cold dry conditions. The file shows none of this, the print sure as shit did not have them going out the door here.

  Mark
  http://www.stillrivereditions.com

  On Jul 5, 2011, at 2:39 PM, mrjimbo wrote:

  > Mark,
  > It's easy to pass the buck.. but that's really not what's appropriate in this case.. Question.. The print is 60 " long I recall how long was the hinge across the top? It would be fair to assume the if you did your part the same and so did the framer you'd have a good shot at repeating the same issue. So a process change is appropriate.. I would suggest also that it's easier for the framer to change his process then for you to change yours.. It's not a big deal to use a different hinge material and adhesive.. I have floated many pieces thru the years and have never seen this issue pop up. I know I must have 3 different hinge kits in the cabinet.. I think you and your framer need to work out a change to the process and share that with the client so that your all on the same page. Find out what glue was used.. Ya know you could spray the back of the job in the area of the hinges to seal it also if you guys figure that the adhesive had anything to do with it.. I guess just being honest is quite appropriate.. and just do so without blaming anyone.. It'll all come back in the end. Oh and if the buckling is bad and deemed objectionable then it is appropriate to look at look at something a little more secure.. 
  > 
  > jimbo



  

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