Korg DW8000, Mono/Poly, MS-20...

Hello all, i am new to both this group and the DW-8000.

I picked up a DW-8000 off Yahoo Japan and am in the process of trying to resurrect her. It was sold as being in an unknown condition and without the power cable. I have changed the power cable socket to the three prong style and replaced the internal battery. The unit powers up fine but i have no sound output at all. It is my understanding that this is a normal condition when the battery is replaced (no programs in memory so no sound).

To remedy the lack of program data, i am trying to load the factory presets from tape. I've checked out the process in the user manual and am running into a snag.

It would appear that once i put the WRITE switch to ENABLE and the TAPE switch to ENABLE the LCD screen should read "7A PE". When i set these two switches to ENABLE on my DW-8000, the LCD makes no such change.

Obviously something is going wrong here. If anyone has ever encountered a similar problem, i would be grateful to hear the eventual outcome.

Many thanks to all for reading and happy holidays,
KRM

As well as sysex files on line, there are *.wav audio files which can be used in lieu of the actual cassette tape.
You would need to run a mini 1/8 MONO jack from the headphone out or sound card line out on the computer. then run that into the tape in jack on the DW 8000.
The sysex solution posted by our associate does work best.
Install MIDI-OX sysex transfer software on your computer. You will need a USB to 5 pin midi adapter (Edirol - $15). Obviously, no USB on an 80s synth, only 5 pin DIN.

It does sound like maybe because of age and lack of use or overuse, the actual 'enable' switches on the back may be faulty or 'rusty'. Try wwitching them back and forth and leave the unit on for a couple of hours and switching them back and forth. Those type of switches often fail.

The DW8000 has a lot of plastic and the audio outs get worn out and fail intermittently. The single edit slider can get dusty also.I've heard the stereo delays come and go with cable jiggle during live shows and the program change numeric buttons sometimes jump up 2 or 3 patches past the target.
A cleaning and reseal may help. while the tech has the unit open, Have the battery reset in a battery holder (from Digitech)
I find these unique instruments to be worth maintenance expense.
The 8 voices and analog filters coupled with the stereo delays and arpeggiator make it worth the $150 folks are selling them for.
Hook up a control surface like Kenton Control Freak or Novation and you've got big time Pink Floyd control.
I send my stuff to Allen at Synth Spa in Milwaukee/Chicago area.

NOTE: Running the arpeggiator for a long time eats the battery up fast. I keep a spare battery taped to the inside of all my synths. Saved me more than once.

Stay in touch. I'd love to see you get the most out of this extremely cool synth.

--- In DW8000@yahoogroups.com, kevin@... wrote:
>
> Hello all, i am new to both this group and the DW-8000.
>
> I picked up a DW-8000 off Yahoo Japan and am in the process of trying to resurrect her. It was sold as being in an unknown condition and without the power cable. I have changed the power cable socket to the three prong style and replaced the internal battery. The unit powers up fine but i have no sound output at all. It is my understanding that this is a normal condition when the battery is replaced (no programs in memory so no sound).
>
> To remedy the lack of program data, i am trying to load the factory presets from tape. I've checked out the process in the user manual and am running into a snag.
>
> It would appear that once i put the WRITE switch to ENABLE and the TAPE switch to ENABLE the LCD screen should read "7A PE". When i set these two switches to ENABLE on my DW-8000, the LCD makes no such change.
>
> Obviously something is going wrong here. If anyone has ever encountered a similar problem, i would be grateful to hear the eventual outcome.
>
> Many thanks to all for reading and happy holidays,
> KRM
>

Whoah, this group is alive!!!!!!  Anyone have a decent tool for sending real-time sysex messages from a computer to the DW-8000?  I'm really struggling to get FL Studio to work with it, and hoping that some day I'll find a VST that plays nice with it.  

If anybody has a DW8000 I could salvage for parts, please contact me.
At the moment the main thing I need is a working key contact assembly.
That's the multiple white plastic frames with the individual key
switches, wired to each other with short ribbon cables.

I'll consider buying just the assembly I need, or the entire DW8000 for
parts. My alternative is to find a good working DW8000, and I can use
the rest of my otherwise-working-fine DW8000 for parts.

Either way, if you can help rescue a DW8000 with parts, shoot me an
email at:
bugsi@...

Thanks,
-Mark

There's one on Ebay right now for parts. $95 buy it now!

--- In DW8000@yahoogroups.com, Mark B <Bugsi@...> wrote:
>
> If anybody has a DW8000 I could salvage for parts, please contact me.
> At the moment the main thing I need is a working key contact assembly.
> That's the multiple white plastic frames with the individual key
> switches, wired to each other with short ribbon cables.
>
> I'll consider buying just the assembly I need, or the entire DW8000 for
> parts. My alternative is to find a good working DW8000, and I can use
> the rest of my otherwise-working-fine DW8000 for parts.
>
> Either way, if you can help rescue a DW8000 with parts, shoot me an
> email at:
> bugsi@...
>
> Thanks,
> -Mark
>

Hey Mark!

I get all my vintage kybd parts from www.vintageplanet.nl
They are in The Netherlands but I have not had any problems and they are nice people to deal with.
Good luck!
~jimmy

--- In DW8000@yahoogroups.com, Mark B <Bugsi@...> wrote:
>
> If anybody has a DW8000 I could salvage for parts, please contact me.
> At the moment the main thing I need is a working key contact assembly.
> That's the multiple white plastic frames with the individual key
> switches, wired to each other with short ribbon cables.
>
> I'll consider buying just the assembly I need, or the entire DW8000 for
> parts. My alternative is to find a good working DW8000, and I can use
> the rest of my otherwise-working-fine DW8000 for parts.
>
> Either way, if you can help rescue a DW8000 with parts, shoot me an
> email at:
> bugsi@...
>
> Thanks,
> -Mark
>

I agree, I use midi-ox and it works great!
~jimmy

--- In DW8000@yahoogroups.com, Chet Lamm <lammergyer@...> wrote:
>
> MIDI-OX
>
> http://www.midiox.com/%c2%a0
>

You're able to do real-time control of the dw8000 with midi ox?  I've been struggling to find some way to tweak multiple parameters in real time by sending those pesky sysex messages.  Nothing so far has seemed to work, very probably through a fault of my own.  

On Thu, Dec 22, 2011 at 10:55 AM, jimmy <jdellamano@...> wrote:

 

I agree, I use midi-ox and it works great!
~jimmy

--- In DW8000@yahoogroups.com, Chet Lamm <lammergyer@...> wrote:
>
> MIDI-OX
>
> http://www.midiox.com/ 
>

Thanks, I'd seen the key contact assembly offered by vintageplanet as
new-old-stock. Based on your review of them I've ordered it. With
conversion from the Euro and fully insured airmail shipping it came to
around $134 US. There was a non-working DW-8000 up on eBay for $95, but
I can't be assured the key contact assembly will be any better than mine.

My DW8000 had one or two notes that would stick "on" when played, and I
opened it up and gently cleaned all the contact switches with Q-tips and
alcohol, but when reassembled it had even more notes sticking than ever
before. I don't know what the deal is with those contact switches to
cause my problems, but I'll do a decent post-mortem on my old assembly
after I install the new assembly.

The switches themselves are straightforward, they have an upper and
lower contact, and the DW8000 uses the time between opening the upper
contact and closing the lower contact to calculate key velocity.

I briefly considered just using my DW8000 as a slave module to a master
keyboard, but I already have an EX8000, and everything else on my DW
works perfectly, and I have a never-been-installed Angel City Turbo
upgrade to put in it, so I really want the physical keyboard working. I
can also stack my DW8000 and DS-8 with a pair of Voce DMI-64 mkII
rackmount units to make a pretty decent DIY Hammond organ. Hopefully
the key contact assembly from vintageplanet will cure the sticking notes
with my DW8000.

Thanks guys!
-Mark
(owner of DW8000.com)

On 12/22/11 8:52 AM, jimmy wrote:
>
>
> Hey Mark!
>
> I get all my vintage kybd parts from www.vintageplanet.nl
> They are in The Netherlands but I have not had any problems and they are nice people to deal with.
> Good luck!
> ~jimmy
>
>
> --- In DW8000@yahoogroups.com, Mark B<Bugsi@...> wrote:
>>
>> If anybody has a DW8000 I could salvage for parts, please contact me.
>> At the moment the main thing I need is a working key contact assembly.
>> That's the multiple white plastic frames with the individual key
>> switches, wired to each other with short ribbon cables.
>>
>> I'll consider buying just the assembly I need, or the entire DW8000 for
>> parts. My alternative is to find a good working DW8000, and I can use
>> the rest of my otherwise-working-fine DW8000 for parts.
>>
>> Either way, if you can help rescue a DW8000 with parts, shoot me an
>> email at:
>> bugsi@...
>>
>> Thanks,
>> -Mark
>>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>

Thanks to all for the info.

I actually replaced the battery when i received the machine. Just went the same route as most others, pulled the battery and replaced it with a battery holder and a new CR2032.

Actually, i see now that i have a more serious problem. It would seem that the majority of the front panel buttons/faders do not do anything. The value/data slider does react when it is moved (LCD immediately goes from "11 8.8 0" to "80 00"), but that's the only one that produces any response. Since the buttons do not work and the rear TAPE switch do not work, i am assuming that there is a much more deep level problem at hand.

I would have though that perhaps i missed/poorly re-connected one of the ribbon cables when i reassembled the unit, but if that was so i would think that the data slider would produce no response at all.

So my problems at this time are:
1. no sound (assumedly due to no programs being loaded)
2. front panel buttons/faders not responding to anything
3. TAPE and WRITE rear switches not responding to anything

I will try and send some patches to the unit via sysex but i assume that i would need to be able to first put the machine into some type of "receive" mode via the front panel/rear switches first... and that would seem to be a problem.

I really would like to save this DW if i could. Appearance wise it is in excellent condition, no scraps, scratches or dings, no funky smells and it even came with the original green carrying case.


Thanks,
/KRM

On Sun, Dec 18, 2011 at 01:07:50AM -0000, Joey wrote:
> As well as sysex files on line, there are *.wav audio files which can be used in lieu of the actual cassette tape.
> You would need to run a mini 1/8 MONO jack from the headphone out or sound card line out on the computer. then run that into the tape in jack on the DW 8000.
> The sysex solution posted by our associate does work best.
> Install MIDI-OX sysex transfer software on your computer. You will need a USB to 5 pin midi adapter (Edirol - $15). Obviously, no USB on an 80s synth, only 5 pin DIN.
>
> It does sound like maybe because of age and lack of use or overuse, the actual 'enable' switches on the back may be faulty or 'rusty'. Try wwitching them back and forth and leave the unit on for a couple of hours and switching them back and forth. Those type of switches often fail.
>
> The DW8000 has a lot of plastic and the audio outs get worn out and fail intermittently. The single edit slider can get dusty also.I've heard the stereo delays come and go with cable jiggle during live shows and the program change numeric buttons sometimes jump up 2 or 3 patches past the target.
> A cleaning and reseal may help. while the tech has the unit open, Have the battery reset in a battery holder (from Digitech)
> I find these unique instruments to be worth maintenance expense.
> The 8 voices and analog filters coupled with the stereo delays and arpeggiator make it worth the $150 folks are selling them for.
> Hook up a control surface like Kenton Control Freak or Novation and you've got big time Pink Floyd control.
> I send my stuff to Allen at Synth Spa in Milwaukee/Chicago area.
>
> NOTE: Running the arpeggiator for a long time eats the battery up fast. I keep a spare battery taped to the inside of all my synths. Saved me more than once.
>
> Stay in touch. I'd love to see you get the most out of this extremely cool synth.
>
>
> --- In DW8000@yahoogroups.com, kevin@... wrote:
> >
> > Hello all, i am new to both this group and the DW-8000.
> >
> > I picked up a DW-8000 off Yahoo Japan and am in the process of trying to resurrect her. It was sold as being in an unknown condition and without the power cable. I have changed the power cable socket to the three prong style and replaced the internal battery. The unit powers up fine but i have no sound output at all. It is my understanding that this is a normal condition when the battery is replaced (no programs in memory so no sound).
> >
> > To remedy the lack of program data, i am trying to load the factory presets from tape. I've checked out the process in the user manual and am running into a snag.
> >
> > It would appear that once i put the WRITE switch to ENABLE and the TAPE switch to ENABLE the LCD screen should read "7A PE". When i set these two switches to ENABLE on my DW-8000, the LCD makes no such change.
> >
> > Obviously something is going wrong here. If anyone has ever encountered a similar problem, i would be grateful to hear the eventual outcome.
> >
> > Many thanks to all for reading and happy holidays,
> > KRM
> >
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>

If you open the unit again, check the ground pin on the data silder.
Mine had a badly cracked solder joint on that pin. Check voltage across
the data slider top to bottom. I'm not sure what it's supposed to be,
but I'll have mine open again soon and I can take some measurements.

You can download the service manual from my website: dw8000.com on the
downloads page.

-Mark

On 12/23/11 4:58 PM, kevin@... wrote:
> Thanks to all for the info.
>
> I actually replaced the battery when i received the machine. Just went the same route as most others, pulled the battery and replaced it with a battery holder and a new CR2032.
>
> Actually, i see now that i have a more serious problem. It would seem that the majority of the front panel buttons/faders do not do anything. The value/data slider does react when it is moved (LCD immediately goes from "11 8.8 0" to "80 00"), but that's the only one that produces any response. Since the buttons do not work and the rear TAPE switch do not work, i am assuming that there is a much more deep level problem at hand.
>
> I would have though that perhaps i missed/poorly re-connected one of the ribbon cables when i reassembled the unit, but if that was so i would think that the data slider would produce no response at all.
>
> So my problems at this time are:
> 1. no sound (assumedly due to no programs being loaded)
> 2. front panel buttons/faders not responding to anything
> 3. TAPE and WRITE rear switches not responding to anything
>
> I will try and send some patches to the unit via sysex but i assume that i would need to be able to first put the machine into some type of "receive" mode via the front panel/rear switches first... and that would seem to be a problem.
>
> I really would like to save this DW if i could. Appearance wise it is in excellent condition, no scraps, scratches or dings, no funky smells and it even came with the original green carrying case.
>
>
> Thanks,
> /KRM
>
>
>
>
> On Sun, Dec 18, 2011 at 01:07:50AM -0000, Joey wrote:
>> As well as sysex files on line, there are *.wav audio files which can be used in lieu of the actual cassette tape.
>> You would need to run a mini 1/8 MONO jack from the headphone out or sound card line out on the computer. then run that into the tape in jack on the DW 8000.
>> The sysex solution posted by our associate does work best.
>> Install MIDI-OX sysex transfer software on your computer. You will need a USB to 5 pin midi adapter (Edirol - $15). Obviously, no USB on an 80s synth, only 5 pin DIN.
>>
>> It does sound like maybe because of age and lack of use or overuse, the actual 'enable' switches on the back may be faulty or 'rusty'. Try wwitching them back and forth and leave the unit on for a couple of hours and switching them back and forth. Those type of switches often fail.
>>
>> The DW8000 has a lot of plastic and the audio outs get worn out and fail intermittently. The single edit slider can get dusty also.I've heard the stereo delays come and go with cable jiggle during live shows and the program change numeric buttons sometimes jump up 2 or 3 patches past the target.
>> A cleaning and reseal may help. while the tech has the unit open, Have the battery reset in a battery holder (from Digitech)
>> I find these unique instruments to be worth maintenance expense.
>> The 8 voices and analog filters coupled with the stereo delays and arpeggiator make it worth the $150 folks are selling them for.
>> Hook up a control surface like Kenton Control Freak or Novation and you've got big time Pink Floyd control.
>> I send my stuff to Allen at Synth Spa in Milwaukee/Chicago area.
>>
>> NOTE: Running the arpeggiator for a long time eats the battery up fast. I keep a spare battery taped to the inside of all my synths. Saved me more than once.
>>
>> Stay in touch. I'd love to see you get the most out of this extremely cool synth.
>>
>>
>> --- In DW8000@yahoogroups.com, kevin@... wrote:
>>>
>>> Hello all, i am new to both this group and the DW-8000.
>>>
>>> I picked up a DW-8000 off Yahoo Japan and am in the process of trying to resurrect her. It was sold as being in an unknown condition and without the power cable. I have changed the power cable socket to the three prong style and replaced the internal battery. The unit powers up fine but i have no sound output at all. It is my understanding that this is a normal condition when the battery is replaced (no programs in memory so no sound).
>>>
>>> To remedy the lack of program data, i am trying to load the factory presets from tape. I've checked out the process in the user manual and am running into a snag.
>>>
>>> It would appear that once i put the WRITE switch to ENABLE and the TAPE switch to ENABLE the LCD screen should read "7A PE". When i set these two switches to ENABLE on my DW-8000, the LCD makes no such change.
>>>
>>> Obviously something is going wrong here. If anyone has ever encountered a similar problem, i would be grateful to hear the eventual outcome.
>>>
>>> Many thanks to all for reading and happy holidays,
>>> KRM
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------------
>>
>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>

I'll definitely check the voltages on that slider next time i open the her up again. Since the data slider is the ONLY slider or button that seems to have any effect on my unit, i suspect that i have a larger issue at foot here, but the data slider solder joint still merits checking.

Thanks for the tip, and the service manual!
/KRM

On Fri, Dec 23, 2011 at 09:10:18PM -0800, Mark B wrote:
> If you open the unit again, check the ground pin on the data silder.
> Mine had a badly cracked solder joint on that pin. Check voltage across
> the data slider top to bottom. I'm not sure what it's supposed to be,
> but I'll have mine open again soon and I can take some measurements.
>
> You can download the service manual from my website: dw8000.com on the
> downloads page.
>
> -Mark
>
> On 12/23/11 4:58 PM, kevin@... wrote:
> > Thanks to all for the info.
> >
> > I actually replaced the battery when i received the machine. Just went the same route as most others, pulled the battery and replaced it with a battery holder and a new CR2032.
> >
> > Actually, i see now that i have a more serious problem. It would seem that the majority of the front panel buttons/faders do not do anything. The value/data slider does react when it is moved (LCD immediately goes from "11 8.8 0" to "80 00"), but that's the only one that produces any response. Since the buttons do not work and the rear TAPE switch do not work, i am assuming that there is a much more deep level problem at hand.
> >
> > I would have though that perhaps i missed/poorly re-connected one of the ribbon cables when i reassembled the unit, but if that was so i would think that the data slider would produce no response at all.
> >
> > So my problems at this time are:
> > 1. no sound (assumedly due to no programs being loaded)
> > 2. front panel buttons/faders not responding to anything
> > 3. TAPE and WRITE rear switches not responding to anything
> >
> > I will try and send some patches to the unit via sysex but i assume that i would need to be able to first put the machine into some type of "receive" mode via the front panel/rear switches first... and that would seem to be a problem.
> >
> > I really would like to save this DW if i could. Appearance wise it is in excellent condition, no scraps, scratches or dings, no funky smells and it even came with the original green carrying case.
> >
> >
> > Thanks,
> > /KRM
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > On Sun, Dec 18, 2011 at 01:07:50AM -0000, Joey wrote:
> >> As well as sysex files on line, there are *.wav audio files which can be used in lieu of the actual cassette tape.
> >> You would need to run a mini 1/8 MONO jack from the headphone out or sound card line out on the computer. then run that into the tape in jack on the DW 8000.
> >> The sysex solution posted by our associate does work best.
> >> Install MIDI-OX sysex transfer software on your computer. You will need a USB to 5 pin midi adapter (Edirol - $15). Obviously, no USB on an 80s synth, only 5 pin DIN.
> >>
> >> It does sound like maybe because of age and lack of use or overuse, the actual 'enable' switches on the back may be faulty or 'rusty'. Try wwitching them back and forth and leave the unit on for a couple of hours and switching them back and forth. Those type of switches often fail.
> >>
> >> The DW8000 has a lot of plastic and the audio outs get worn out and fail intermittently. The single edit slider can get dusty also.I've heard the stereo delays come and go with cable jiggle during live shows and the program change numeric buttons sometimes jump up 2 or 3 patches past the target.
> >> A cleaning and reseal may help. while the tech has the unit open, Have the battery reset in a battery holder (from Digitech)
> >> I find these unique instruments to be worth maintenance expense.
> >> The 8 voices and analog filters coupled with the stereo delays and arpeggiator make it worth the $150 folks are selling them for.
> >> Hook up a control surface like Kenton Control Freak or Novation and you've got big time Pink Floyd control.
> >> I send my stuff to Allen at Synth Spa in Milwaukee/Chicago area.
> >>
> >> NOTE: Running the arpeggiator for a long time eats the battery up fast. I keep a spare battery taped to the inside of all my synths. Saved me more than once.
> >>
> >> Stay in touch. I'd love to see you get the most out of this extremely cool synth.
> >>
> >>
> >> --- In DW8000@yahoogroups.com, kevin@... wrote:
> >>>
> >>> Hello all, i am new to both this group and the DW-8000.
> >>>
> >>> I picked up a DW-8000 off Yahoo Japan and am in the process of trying to resurrect her. It was sold as being in an unknown condition and without the power cable. I have changed the power cable socket to the three prong style and replaced the internal battery. The unit powers up fine but i have no sound output at all. It is my understanding that this is a normal condition when the battery is replaced (no programs in memory so no sound).
> >>>
> >>> To remedy the lack of program data, i am trying to load the factory presets from tape. I've checked out the process in the user manual and am running into a snag.
> >>>
> >>> It would appear that once i put the WRITE switch to ENABLE and the TAPE switch to ENABLE the LCD screen should read "7A PE". When i set these two switches to ENABLE on my DW-8000, the LCD makes no such change.
> >>>
> >>> Obviously something is going wrong here. If anyone has ever encountered a similar problem, i would be grateful to hear the eventual outcome.
> >>>
> >>> Many thanks to all for reading and happy holidays,
> >>> KRM
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> ------------------------------------
> >>
> >> Yahoo! Groups Links
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------------
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>

Hello all,

please trust your skills. The DW8000 keyboard is easy to repair and to put into service again. With some feeling for mechanics and understand of the contact assembly. I have managed to fix a keyboard even after a heavy impact due to the synth's falling from my car's roof (while car was standing...).

Before you go throught the hassle of ordering and installing a new (used) contact assembly, try fix your own.

You need a good eye (magnifying glass and good illumination) and a pair of tweezers. Just try to bend the worn out contact metal strips (contact springs) into the right position. I am sure there are some key left with flawless contacts that may serve as a template. There is a "note on" contact and there is a "note off" contact. The latter being more prone to failure due to oxidation and wear. It is important to have all contact strips in the same position, else the velocity will not be sensed correct. I never had a used DW8000 keyboard where the contact postiion was the same for all key - with negative impact on the velocity. So even if note on and off is sensed correctly it might be worth adjusting the contact strips after all these years of use.

Once the contacts are all in about the same position, you need to get rid of oxadation. You need to use a strong oxidation remover (in Europe e.g. Kontakt 60), but ,in any event, you need to remove the applied antioxidant after use (i.e. once contact has been re-established) by means of some neutral solvent (alcohol or de-greaser will do; in Europe e.g. Kontakt 61, Kontakt WL or Tuner 600)

I think the DW8000 keyboard contact assembly is pretty robust and serviceable. Who is able to remove or replace the whole keyboard in a DW8000 has enough skills to also service the key's contacts. Trust your skills!

My only problem with this is that I tried cleaning the contact assembly,
and the result was worse than when I started. Now I have around a dozen
notes that don't turn off when they're pressed. I've disassembled my
DW8000 many times, including when I first got it back around 1990. The
previous owner had spilled a Coca-Cola in it, and I disassembled the
entire thing, every single key and circuit board. I've replaced all the
1/4" jacks because the plastic housings all cracked on mine. I've
replaced the CR2032 battery with a battery holder and new cell, and I've
had to resolder the data slider and DeOxit the volume slider. I'm no
newbie to electronics repair, but I can't figure out the problem with
the contact assembly at all. Trying to clean and adjust the contacts
made the thing worse. Unless I can get some progress going in the
direction of improvement, replacing the contact assembly with a
new-old-stock unit should give me a like-new DW8000. I'm willing to
take another crack at my contact assembly, but the new assembly has
already shipped from the Netherlands.

-Mark

On 12/24/11 12:34 PM, mondovermona wrote:
> Hello all,
>
> please trust your skills. The DW8000 keyboard is easy to repair and to put into service again. With some feeling for mechanics and understand of the contact assembly. I have managed to fix a keyboard even after a heavy impact due to the synth's falling from my car's roof (while car was standing...).
>
> Before you go throught the hassle of ordering and installing a new (used) contact assembly, try fix your own.
>
> You need a good eye (magnifying glass and good illumination) and a pair of tweezers. Just try to bend the worn out contact metal strips (contact springs) into the right position. I am sure there are some key left with flawless contacts that may serve as a template. There is a "note on" contact and there is a "note off" contact. The latter being more prone to failure due to oxidation and wear. It is important to have all contact strips in the same position, else the velocity will not be sensed correct. I never had a used DW8000 keyboard where the contact postiion was the same for all key - with negative impact on the velocity. So even if note on and off is sensed correctly it might be worth adjusting the contact strips after all these years of use.
>
> Once the contacts are all in about the same position, you need to get rid of oxadation. You need to use a strong oxidation remover (in Europe e.g. Kontakt 60), but ,in any event, you need to remove the applied antioxidant after use (i.e. once contact has been re-established) by means of some neutral solvent (alcohol or de-greaser will do; in Europe e.g. Kontakt 61, Kontakt WL or Tuner 600)
>
> I think the DW8000 keyboard contact assembly is pretty robust and serviceable. Who is able to remove or replace the whole keyboard in a DW8000 has enough skills to also service the key's contacts. Trust your skills!
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>

And to be clear, the contact assembly I ordered is new-old-stock, not
used. Your email here is the only description I've seen on "how to"
repair the contact assembly. I think this is a ripe topic for a how-to
with pictures. If I can make successful adjustments to my assembly,
perhaps I'll document it on DW8000.com.

-Mark

On 12/24/11 12:34 PM, mondovermona wrote:
> Hello all,
>
> please trust your skills. The DW8000 keyboard is easy to repair and to put into service again. With some feeling for mechanics and understand of the contact assembly. I have managed to fix a keyboard even after a heavy impact due to the synth's falling from my car's roof (while car was standing...).
>
> Before you go throught the hassle of ordering and installing a new (used) contact assembly, try fix your own.
>
> You need a good eye (magnifying glass and good illumination) and a pair of tweezers. Just try to bend the worn out contact metal strips (contact springs) into the right position. I am sure there are some key left with flawless contacts that may serve as a template. There is a "note on" contact and there is a "note off" contact. The latter being more prone to failure due to oxidation and wear. It is important to have all contact strips in the same position, else the velocity will not be sensed correct. I never had a used DW8000 keyboard where the contact postiion was the same for all key - with negative impact on the velocity. So even if note on and off is sensed correctly it might be worth adjusting the contact strips after all these years of use.
>
> Once the contacts are all in about the same position, you need to get rid of oxadation. You need to use a strong oxidation remover (in Europe e.g. Kontakt 60), but ,in any event, you need to remove the applied antioxidant after use (i.e. once contact has been re-established) by means of some neutral solvent (alcohol or de-greaser will do; in Europe e.g. Kontakt 61, Kontakt WL or Tuner 600)
>
> I think the DW8000 keyboard contact assembly is pretty robust and serviceable. Who is able to remove or replace the whole keyboard in a DW8000 has enough skills to also service the key's contacts. Trust your skills!
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>

Cheers Mark,

I now see that you have had a really hard tome with your keys. I have repaired now several DW8000 contact boards which had the same initial problems as yours with long lasting success. But I now learn from you that at some stage in a DW8000's life a NOS replacement is the way to go. Thank you for that teaching. BTW: The source in the Netherlands I can recomment.

I apears as if after all your attempts to fix and adjust the contacts their metal's mechanical resistance did "wear out" making it impossible to restore sufficient contact pressure for a safe contact.

I would love to post some photos, but am afraid that the photos cannot be so accurate and clear to inform on how the contact adjustment is to be done. But the next time I open up my DW8000 I will shoot some pictures, promised.

I can only hope that your "note off" problem is not attributed to a damage of the key-sensing electronics. Did you succeed in "forcing" a "note off" at the faulty contacts by shorting them with external means (i.e. pair of tweezers)?

What regards the keyboard, I experience more problems with broken keys. The are prone to break on the tip and, more serious, on the pivot back. I succeeded in glueing the broken parts together. Luckily, the broken off parts tend to be retained in the inside of the case and can be easily retrieved. After the glue is hardened I ues a very small drill to drill a hole through both glued together parts and use a rigid (stainless steel) wire that goes into the holes and glue it into place. As a reinforcement of the fix. Glueing without metal reinforcement does not hold for long, if at all. You might want to do this "surgery" under a magnifiying glass. The most critical thing is the drilling of the hole that takes the wire. For the pivotal end of the keys use a dril of less than 1 millimeter. Pay attentiion to the tempersture of the drill during drilling, else the plasic will melt. When you're finished, place the repaired keys to the high or very low octaves which I think are not used too often. My equipment for drilling the small holes and the glues was less expensive than the money asked out there for replacementt keys. A last word on replacement keys: Consider that the recplacment key may not match in color with your own keyboard, in particular if your afre or haven been a smoker...


What I would like to say to people here is that it is a good idea to get another used, maybe partly broken, DW8000 as a reserve for futuer repairs. (Having said that I must admit that I have sold every broken DW8000 I bought for "spare purposes" because they all were easy to fix and then I gave them away to (now happy) musicians. The next broken DW8000 I will keep for sure...)

Any comments? Please feel free to ask.

--- In DW8000@yahoogroups.com, Mark B <Bugsi@...> wrote:
>
> And to be clear, the contact assembly I ordered is new-old-stock, not
> used. Your email here is the only description I've seen on "how to"
> repair the contact assembly. I think this is a ripe topic for a how-to
> with pictures. If I can make successful adjustments to my assembly,
> perhaps I'll document it on DW8000.com.
>
> -Mark
>
> On 12/24/11 12:34 PM, mondovermona wrote:
> > Hello all,
> >
> > please trust your skills. The DW8000 keyboard is easy to repair and to put into service again. With some feeling for mechanics and understand of the contact assembly. I have managed to fix a keyboard even after a heavy impact due to the synth's falling from my car's roof (while car was standing...).
> >
> > Before you go throught the hassle of ordering and installing a new (used) contact assembly, try fix your own.
> >
> > You need a good eye (magnifying glass and good illumination) and a pair of tweezers. Just try to bend the worn out contact metal strips (contact springs) into the right position. I am sure there are some key left with flawless contacts that may serve as a template. There is a "note on" contact and there is a "note off" contact. The latter being more prone to failure due to oxidation and wear. It is important to have all contact strips in the same position, else the velocity will not be sensed correct. I never had a used DW8000 keyboard where the contact postiion was the same for all key - with negative impact on the velocity. So even if note on and off is sensed correctly it might be worth adjusting the contact strips after all these years of use.
> >
> > Once the contacts are all in about the same position, you need to get rid of oxadation. You need to use a strong oxidation remover (in Europe e.g. Kontakt 60), but ,in any event, you need to remove the applied antioxidant after use (i.e. once contact has been re-established) by means of some neutral solvent (alcohol or de-greaser will do; in Europe e.g. Kontakt 61, Kontakt WL or Tuner 600)
> >
> > I think the DW8000 keyboard contact assembly is pretty robust and serviceable. Who is able to remove or replace the whole keyboard in a DW8000 has enough skills to also service the key's contacts. Trust your skills!
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------------
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
>

Thanks for your comments.
Yes, I'm confident the problem with my DW is the contacts in the contact
assembly. Usually just a second strike of the continuous sounding note
key is enough to silence it, and tweaking/cleaning of the contacts was
all it took to go from one note sticking on to multiple notes sticking
on. Operating my DW from a master keyboard such as a KX88 operates it
no problem, and every other bit of electronics in my DW is operating
perfectly. That's the real killer for me is that the *only* thing
misbehaving in my DW8000 is a few sticking notes with the key contacts.

I've also considered buying a used inop DW8000 for parts or as an easy
repair, but right now I have so many keyboards that my wife is starting
to get ticked: DW8000, DS-8, SG1-D, KX88, and a Poly800 II. I can't
justify having another keyboard in the house for parts at this time.
Maybe when I get the garage cleaned out more. :-)

In reply to the other post questioned: Yes, it was straight Coca-cola,
and it had been in there for some time, along with a fair amount of
probably cat hair and dust stuck to the leftover suger-syrup splotch.
But I was thorough and meticulous in cleaning the unit, and it has been
a smooth operator for nearly 20 years. All traces of cola have been
long-gone from my DW8000.

With a new old stock contact assembly, my DW should be operating
literally like new, and I'll feel much better about installing my
still-new Angel City Turbo board that I've had for around 14 years but
never installed.

-Mark

On 12/25/11 7:02 AM, mondovermona wrote:
> Cheers Mark,
>
> I now see that you have had a really hard tome with your keys. I have repaired now several DW8000 contact boards which had the same initial problems as yours with long lasting success. But I now learn from you that at some stage in a DW8000's life a NOS replacement is the way to go. Thank you for that teaching. BTW: The source in the Netherlands I can recomment.
>
> I apears as if after all your attempts to fix and adjust the contacts their metal's mechanical resistance did "wear out" making it impossible to restore sufficient contact pressure for a safe contact.
>
> I would love to post some photos, but am afraid that the photos cannot be so accurate and clear to inform on how the contact adjustment is to be done. But the next time I open up my DW8000 I will shoot some pictures, promised.
>
> I can only hope that your "note off" problem is not attributed to a damage of the key-sensing electronics. Did you succeed in "forcing" a "note off" at the faulty contacts by shorting them with external means (i.e. pair of tweezers)?
>
> What regards the keyboard, I experience more problems with broken keys. The are prone to break on the tip and, more serious, on the pivot back. I succeeded in glueing the broken parts together. Luckily, the broken off parts tend to be retained in the inside of the case and can be easily retrieved. After the glue is hardened I ues a very small drill to drill a hole through both glued together parts and use a rigid (stainless steel) wire that goes into the holes and glue it into place. As a reinforcement of the fix. Glueing without metal reinforcement does not hold for long, if at all. You might want to do this "surgery" under a magnifiying glass. The most critical thing is the drilling of the hole that takes the wire. For the pivotal end of the keys use a dril of less than 1 millimeter. Pay attentiion to the tempersture of the drill during drilling, else the plasic will melt. When you're finished, place the repaired keys to the high or very low octaves which I think are not
used too
> often. My equipment for drilling the small holes and the glues was less expensive than the money asked out there for replacementt keys. A last word on replacement keys: Consider that the recplacment key may not match in color with your own keyboard, in particular if your afre or haven been a smoker...
>
>
> What I would like to say to people here is that it is a good idea to get another used, maybe partly broken, DW8000 as a reserve for futuer repairs. (Having said that I must admit that I have sold every broken DW8000 I bought for "spare purposes" because they all were easy to fix and then I gave them away to (now happy) musicians. The next broken DW8000 I will keep for sure...)
>
> Any comments? Please feel free to ask.

I have the Angel City Turbo board's instructions as .jpg files, I'll
convert them to PDF and post it on dw8000.com a bit later today. I'll
post here when it's ready.

-Mark

On 12/25/11 1:30 PM, glynn buckley wrote:
>
>
> Hi, I see Mark says he has a "new" angel city turbo board.......would
> you be able to post the instructions to the group???...My 8k has one
> fittted, and I suspect it does more than I have discovered
>
> Regards to all
>
> *GLYNN*
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> To: DW8000@yahoogroups.com
> From: Bugsi@...
> Date: Sun, 25 Dec 2011 12:55:08 -0800
> Subject: Re: [DW8000] Re: Looking for parts - Replacement or Repair of Keys
>
> Thanks for your comments.
> Yes, I'm confident the problem with my DW is the contacts in the contact
> assembly. Usually just a second strike of the continuous sounding note
> key is enough to silence it, and tweaking/cleaning of the contacts was
> all it took to go from one note sticking on to multiple notes sticking
> on. Operating my DW from a master keyboard such as a KX88 operates it
> no problem, and every other bit of electronics in my DW is operating
> perfectly. That's the real killer for me is that the *only* thing
> misbehaving in my DW8000 is a few sticking notes with the key contacts.
>
> I've also considered buying a used inop DW8000 for parts or as an easy
> repair, but right now I have so many keyboards that my wife is starting
> to get ticked: DW8000, DS-8, SG1-D, KX88, and a Poly800 II. I can't
> justify having another keyboard in the house for parts at this time.
> Maybe when I get the garage cleaned out more. :-)
>
> In reply to the other post questioned: Yes, it was straight Coca-cola,
> and it had been in there for some time, along with a fair amount of
> probably cat hair and dust stuck to the leftover suger-syrup splotch.
> But I was thorough and meticulous in cleaning the unit, and it has been
> a smooth operator for nearly 20 years. All traces of cola have been
> long-gone from my DW8000.
>
> With a new old stock contact assembly, my DW should be operating
> literally like new, and I'll feel much better about installing my
> still-new Angel City Turbo board that I've had for around 14 years but
> never installed.
>
> -Mark
>
> On 12/25/11 7:02 AM, mondovermona wrote:
> > Cheers Mark,
> >
> > I now see that you have had a really hard tome with your keys. I have
> repaired now several DW8000 contact boards which had the same initial
> problems as yours with long lasting success. But I now learn from you
> that at some stage in a DW8000's life a NOS replacement is the way to
> go. Thank you for that teaching. BTW: The source in the Netherlands I
> can recomment.
> >
> > I apears as if after all your attempts to fix and adjust the contacts
> their metal's mechanical resistance did "wear out" making it impossible
> to restore sufficient contact pressure for a safe contact.
> >
> > I would love to post some photos, but am afraid that the photos
> cannot be so accurate and clear to inform on how the contact adjustment
> is to be done. But the next time I open up my DW8000 I will shoot some
> pictures, promised.
> >
> > I can only hope that your "note off" problem is not attributed to a
> damage of the key-sensing electronics. Did you succeed in "forcing" a
> "note off" at the faulty contacts by shorting them with external means
> (i.e. pair of tweezers)?
> >
> > What regards the keyboard, I experience more problems with broken
> keys. The are prone to break on the tip and, more serious, on the pivot
> back. I succeeded in glueing the broken parts together. Luckily, the
> broken off parts tend to be retained in the inside of the case and can
> be easily retrieved. After the glue is hardened I ues a very small drill
> to drill a hole through both glued together parts and use a rigid
> (stainless steel) wire that goes into the holes and glue it into place.
> As a reinforcement of the fix. Glueing without metal reinforcement does
> not hold for long, if at all. You might want to do this "surgery" under
> a magnifiying glass. The most critical thing is the drilling of the hole
> that takes the wire. For the pivotal end of the keys use a dril of less
> than 1 millimeter. Pay attentiion to the tempersture of the drill during
> drilling, else the plasic will melt. When you're finished, place the
> repaired keys to the high or very low octaves which I think are not
> used too
> > often. My equipment for drilling the small holes and the glues was
> less expensive than the money asked out there for replacementt keys. A
> last word on replacement keys: Consider that the recplacment key may not
> match in color with your own keyboard, in particular if your afre or
> haven been a smoker...
> >
> >
> > What I would like to say to people here is that it is a good idea to
> get another used, maybe partly broken, DW8000 as a reserve for futuer
> repairs. (Having said that I must admit that I have sold every broken
> DW8000 I bought for "spare purposes" because they all were easy to fix
> and then I gave them away to (now happy) musicians. The next broken
> DW8000 I will keep for sure...)
> >
> > Any comments? Please feel free to ask.
>
>
>
>

Hi Glynn - the manual is already in the "files" section, as dwturbo manual.zip. The mod adds a great deal of functionality to the DW8000 - Cheers, Jim

--- In DW8000@yahoogroups.com, glynn buckley <thowdnudger@...> wrote:
>
>
> Hi, I see Mark says he has a "new" angel city turbo board.......would you be able to post the instructions to the group???...My 8k has one fittted, and I suspect it does more than I have discovered
>
> Regards to all
>
> GLYNN
>
>
>
>
> To: DW8000@yahoogroups.com
> From: Bugsi@...
> Date: Sun, 25 Dec 2011 12:55:08 -0800
> Subject: Re: [DW8000] Re: Looking for parts - Replacement or Repair of Keys
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Thanks for your comments.
> Yes, I'm confident the problem with my DW is the contacts in the contact
> assembly. Usually just a second strike of the continuous sounding note
> key is enough to silence it, and tweaking/cleaning of the contacts was
> all it took to go from one note sticking on to multiple notes sticking
> on. Operating my DW from a master keyboard such as a KX88 operates it
> no problem, and every other bit of electronics in my DW is operating
> perfectly. That's the real killer for me is that the *only* thing
> misbehaving in my DW8000 is a few sticking notes with the key contacts.
>
> I've also considered buying a used inop DW8000 for parts or as an easy
> repair, but right now I have so many keyboards that my wife is starting
> to get ticked: DW8000, DS-8, SG1-D, KX88, and a Poly800 II. I can't
> justify having another keyboard in the house for parts at this time.
> Maybe when I get the garage cleaned out more. :-)
>
> In reply to the other post questioned: Yes, it was straight Coca-cola,
> and it had been in there for some time, along with a fair amount of
> probably cat hair and dust stuck to the leftover suger-syrup splotch.
> But I was thorough and meticulous in cleaning the unit, and it has been
> a smooth operator for nearly 20 years. All traces of cola have been
> long-gone from my DW8000.
>
> With a new old stock contact assembly, my DW should be operating
> literally like new, and I'll feel much better about installing my
> still-new Angel City Turbo board that I've had for around 14 years but
> never installed.
>
> -Mark
>
> On 12/25/11 7:02 AM, mondovermona wrote:
> > Cheers Mark,
> >
> > I now see that you have had a really hard tome with your keys. I have repaired now several DW8000 contact boards which had the same initial problems as yours with long lasting success. But I now learn from you that at some stage in a DW8000's life a NOS replacement is the way to go. Thank you for that teaching. BTW: The source in the Netherlands I can recomment.
> >
> > I apears as if after all your attempts to fix and adjust the contacts their metal's mechanical resistance did "wear out" making it impossible to restore sufficient contact pressure for a safe contact.
> >
> > I would love to post some photos, but am afraid that the photos cannot be so accurate and clear to inform on how the contact adjustment is to be done. But the next time I open up my DW8000 I will shoot some pictures, promised.
> >
> > I can only hope that your "note off" problem is not attributed to a damage of the key-sensing electronics. Did you succeed in "forcing" a "note off" at the faulty contacts by shorting them with external means (i.e. pair of tweezers)?
> >
> > What regards the keyboard, I experience more problems with broken keys. The are prone to break on the tip and, more serious, on the pivot back. I succeeded in glueing the broken parts together. Luckily, the broken off parts tend to be retained in the inside of the case and can be easily retrieved. After the glue is hardened I ues a very small drill to drill a hole through both glued together parts and use a rigid (stainless steel) wire that goes into the holes and glue it into place. As a reinforcement of the fix. Glueing without metal reinforcement does not hold for long, if at all. You might want to do this "surgery" under a magnifiying glass. The most critical thing is the drilling of the hole that takes the wire. For the pivotal end of the keys use a dril of less than 1 millimeter. Pay attentiion to the tempersture of the drill during drilling, else the plasic will melt. When you're finished, place the repaired keys to the high or very low octaves which I think are not
> used too
> > often. My equipment for drilling the small holes and the glues was less expensive than the money asked out there for replacementt keys. A last word on replacement keys: Consider that the recplacment key may not match in color with your own keyboard, in particular if your afre or haven been a smoker...
> >
> >
> > What I would like to say to people here is that it is a good idea to get another used, maybe partly broken, DW8000 as a reserve for futuer repairs. (Having said that I must admit that I have sold every broken DW8000 I bought for "spare purposes" because they all were easy to fix and then I gave them away to (now happy) musicians. The next broken DW8000 I will keep for sure...)
> >
> > Any comments? Please feel free to ask.
>

Sorry for the long absence. I have updates on the status of my DW8000.
I mentioned previously that I've had my DW8000 apart many times, and
that I tried cleaning the contacts in the key contact assembly but wound
up with even more keys that were sticking on.

So around the holidays I ordered a new old stock contact assembly from
the Netherlands, and eventually got around to installing it, and that's
when I discovered what was really causing the problem.

Apparently one of the times I had it apart to attempt cleaning of the
contact assembly I removed all 20 of the metric machine screws that
attach the contact assembly, and FORGOT TO REINSTALL THEM. The entire
contact assembly was held on by the four screws that hold the RFI
shielding onto the circuit boards attached to the contact assembly, and
the rest of the contact assembly was hanging from those circuit boards.
I was lucky nothing broke. The result was that the contact assembly
was hanging down by gravity away from the part of the keyboard keys that
push on the contacts. It is amazing to me that the thing was working AT
ALL. I have no idea where I put the 20 metric machine screws that
attach the contact assembly, so I had to make a hardware store run to
buy new ones. Once the new contact assembly was installed properly with
the screws and the unit buttoned up, it works PERFECTLY.

As a sidenote, the plastic "towers" for the screws that hold the case
top and bottom together on my unit have become brittle and nearly all of
them have broken over the years of opening the unit up. I went through
it [again] with a 45 watt soldering iron and used leftover nylon
wire-tie pieces as a sort of plastic welding-rod to repair them as I
have done in years past, and it seems to be holding up fine.

Since I moved a bit more than a year ago I've seen my Angel City Turbo
upgrade board but haven't had time to go through things to find it right
now, so I just buttoned up the unit without it for now. When I find it
again I'll install it.

So I did go ahead and install the new contact assembly, but I'm hanging
onto the original contact assembly, as I believe there probably isn't
really anything wrong with it. I'll hang onto as a spare part in case I
ever have a catastrophe.

My volume slider has a little static to it again. I'll go through it
with some contact cleaner. Otherwise, it's working perfectly and I'm
very happy to play it again.

-Mark

On 12/25/11 12:55 PM, Mark B wrote:
> Thanks for your comments.
> Yes, I'm confident the problem with my DW is the contacts in the contact
> assembly. Usually just a second strike of the continuous sounding note
> key is enough to silence it, and tweaking/cleaning of the contacts was
> all it took to go from one note sticking on to multiple notes sticking
> on. Operating my DW from a master keyboard such as a KX88 operates it
> no problem, and every other bit of electronics in my DW is operating
> perfectly. That's the real killer for me is that the *only* thing
> misbehaving in my DW8000 is a few sticking notes with the key contacts.
>
> I've also considered buying a used inop DW8000 for parts or as an easy
> repair, but right now I have so many keyboards that my wife is starting
> to get ticked: DW8000, DS-8, SG1-D, KX88, and a Poly800 II. I can't
> justify having another keyboard in the house for parts at this time.
> Maybe when I get the garage cleaned out more. :-)
>
> In reply to the other post questioned: Yes, it was straight Coca-cola,
> and it had been in there for some time, along with a fair amount of
> probably cat hair and dust stuck to the leftover suger-syrup splotch.
> But I was thorough and meticulous in cleaning the unit, and it has been
> a smooth operator for nearly 20 years. All traces of cola have been
> long-gone from my DW8000.
>
> With a new old stock contact assembly, my DW should be operating
> literally like new, and I'll feel much better about installing my
> still-new Angel City Turbo board that I've had for around 14 years but
> never installed.
>
> -Mark
>
> On 12/25/11 7:02 AM, mondovermona wrote:
>> Cheers Mark,
>>
>> I now see that you have had a really hard tome with your keys. I have repaired now several DW8000 contact boards which had the same initial problems as yours with long lasting success. But I now learn from you that at some stage in a DW8000's life a NOS replacement is the way to go. Thank you for that teaching. BTW: The source in the Netherlands I can recomment.
>>
>> I apears as if after all your attempts to fix and adjust the contacts their metal's mechanical resistance did "wear out" making it impossible to restore sufficient contact pressure for a safe contact.
>>
>> I would love to post some photos, but am afraid that the photos cannot be so accurate and clear to inform on how the contact adjustment is to be done. But the next time I open up my DW8000 I will shoot some pictures, promised.
>>
>> I can only hope that your "note off" problem is not attributed to a damage of the key-sensing electronics. Did you succeed in "forcing" a "note off" at the faulty contacts by shorting them with external means (i.e. pair of tweezers)?
>>
>> What regards the keyboard, I experience more problems with broken keys. The are prone to break on the tip and, more serious, on the pivot back. I succeeded in glueing the broken parts together. Luckily, the broken off parts tend to be retained in the inside of the case and can be easily retrieved. After the glue is hardened I ues a very small drill to drill a hole through both glued together parts and use a rigid (stainless steel) wire that goes into the holes and glue it into place. As a reinforcement of the fix. Glueing without metal reinforcement does not hold for long, if at all. You might want to do this "surgery" under a magnifiying glass. The most critical thing is the drilling of the hole that takes the wire. For the pivotal end of the keys use a dril of less than 1 millimeter. Pay attentiion to the tempersture of the drill during drilling, else the plasic will melt. When you're finished, place the repaired keys to the high or very low octaves which I think are not
> used too
>> often. My equipment for drilling the small holes and the glues was less expensive than the money asked out there for replacementt keys. A last word on replacement keys: Consider that the recplacment key may not match in color with your own keyboard, in particular if your afre or haven been a smoker...
>>
>>
>> What I would like to say to people here is that it is a good idea to get another used, maybe partly broken, DW8000 as a reserve for futuer repairs. (Having said that I must admit that I have sold every broken DW8000 I bought for "spare purposes" because they all were easy to fix and then I gave them away to (now happy) musicians. The next broken DW8000 I will keep for sure...)
>>
>> Any comments? Please feel free to ask.
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>