Yamaha DTXpress/DTXplorer/DTXtreme

Just got an idea here!

Stephen (was that you?), I have an idea on how you can label the pad input 
cables neatly.  You'll need a labelmaker (the one with a handle and a round 
thing that takes that plastic tape and you click out letters and such) and a 
soldering iron with a clean, non-oxidized tip.

Make the labels long enough to overlap a bit on the ends.  Once you've done 
that and you have the labels on currectly, carefully melt the overlap and the 
underlap together carefully.  They shouldn't come apart that way.  

I bought a set of 5 different colors of tape, so that they are color-coded for 
finding both ends and numbered so that you can quickly plug the cable into 
the right input jack.

Stephanie with an idea...

> I bought a set of 5 different colors of tape, so that they are color-coded
> for 
> finding both ends and numbered so that you can quickly plug the cable into
> 
> the right input jack.
> 
> Stephanie with an idea...
> 
> Yes, label makers are great. I used it to organize all the cables on my
> set.
> 
OGD


 
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I use these:

http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&category%5Fname=CTLG%5F011%5F010%5F008%5F001&product%5Fid=278%2D1616

Go to Radioshcak.com and search for catalog # 278-1616

These are little stick-on labels that you write on with a fine-point
sharpie and they look *very* pro and have proven to be very durable since
they don't stick to get in the way or get torn off.

You peel it, start to wrap the cable, write the text, then wrap the rest
of the way. It's kinda like a 4 inch pice of very strong tape with the
first inch opaque white and the rest is clear, so you wrap the white
part, write the text and then cover it with the remaining clear tape to
protect it. The ones I have haven't gotten "gummy" yet and it's been
about a year.. YMMV :)

Vern

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Senior Systems Engineer     | obviously incompetent so why are we
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Stephanie Ellison said:

> Just got an idea here!
>
> Stephen (was that you?), I have an idea on how you can label the pad
> input  cables neatly.  You'll need a labelmaker (the one with a handle
> and a round  thing that takes that plastic tape and you click out
> letters and such) and a  soldering iron with a clean, non-oxidized tip.
>
> Make the labels long enough to overlap a bit on the ends.  Once you've
> done  that and you have the labels on currectly, carefully melt the
> overlap and the  underlap together carefully.  They shouldn't come
> apart that way.
>
> I bought a set of 5 different colors of tape, so that they are
> color-coded for  finding both ends and numbered so that you can quickly
> plug the cable into  the right input jack.
>
> Stephanie with an idea...
>
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One thing I forgot to write is that the label go on the cable plug itself and 
not the cable itself.

Stephanie

--- In DTXpress@yahoogroups.com, Stephanie Ellison <deafdrummer@a...> 
wrote:
> One thing I forgot to write is that the label go on the cable plug 
itself and 
> not the cable itself.
> 
> Stephanie

Wouldn't it be nice if the cables came from Yamaha pre-labeled? The 
label could be molded into the connector, so you would have one end 
labeled snare the other end zone 2.


Since labeling of cables is a universal issue, why haven't cable 
manufacturers come up with a snap on device that would attached at 
the plug end (between the cable and the connector plug/jack) that had 
a flat white write-on surface of say 1/4" high x 1" long. The flat 
surface could be placed on two sides, for more writing area.

OGD

--- In DTXpress@yahoogroups.com, "oldguydrummer" <rdamon@m...> wrote:
> Since labeling of cables is a universal issue, why haven't cable 
> manufacturers come up with a snap on device that would attached at 
> the plug end (between the cable and the connector plug/jack) that 
had 
> a flat white write-on surface of say 1/4" high x 1" long. The flat 
> surface could be placed on two sides, for more writing area.

The twiddly audio/video people frequently attend to such matters. I 
know that Monster supplies stick-on labels for the cables that 
connect to their AC line filters. Try AudioAdvisor, for example, for 
something that might be adaptable. Incidentally, an AC line 
filter/surge protector might be a good idea to use with a drum 
module.

> Incidentally, an AC line
> filter/surge protector might be a good idea to use with a drum
> module.

How about this - a UPS (Uninterruptible Power Supply) commonly used for 
computers?  Not only do you have your surge and lightning protection, but 
you've got brownout, spike, and AC line noise protection, along with a 
conditioned, steady power supply that keeps going after the power goes out, 
long enough to reach the end of a song.

Has anyone tried this and how big a UPS do you have to get in order to keep 
playing until the song is over?

Stephanie

My method for labeling cable is such:

I wrap the ends of all cables going to module A in red electrician's 
tape. All the cables going to module B are wrapped in yellow tape. 

I then place 1/2" stick-on letters on the tape. On one end, I label 
the trigger number. On the other, I label the pad type by initial 
i.e. S=snare, T1=Tom 1, HH=Hi-hat, etc. T

his seems to work quite well for fast set ups.

Stephen

Here's my $.02 on the labeling issue:
Mine ar not labeled. I leave the cables plugged in to the module. The 
cables are neatly bundled into a harness, with the appropriate cable 
exiting the harness at the proper position. Once all the pads are 
mounted, I mount the module, lay out the harness, and just plug them 
in. I have never gotten it wrong. The only disadvantage, is with 
spiral wrap, changes are difficult (it takes a long time to 
wrap-unwrap). Make sure you have the set-up you want before you 
harness.
I use a large diameter wrap at the module, and a smaller one once some 
of the cables are out. There is one branch in the harness that runs 
down the left vertical tube that carries the kick and HH foot control 
cables down to the floor.
There is a different type of wrap i saw once on an infomercial that 
was very easy to wrap and unwrap, but i have not seen it since. I 
don't like the 'corrugated' split type tubing. It seems to cut into 
the cables.But it is easier to wrap.
The harness keeps the cables tightly bound together, and is almost 
invisible when properly positioned.
Scott

--- In DTXpress@yahoogroups.com, "brown8700" <brown8700@a...> wrote:

> My method for labeling cable is such:
> 
> I wrap the ends of all cables going to module A in red electrician's 
> tape. All the cables going to module B are wrapped in yellow tape. 
> 
> I then place 1/2" stick-on letters on the tape. On one end, I label 
> the trigger number. On the other, I label the pad type by initial 
> i.e. S=snare, T1=Tom 1, HH=Hi-hat, etc. T
> 
> his seems to work quite well for fast set ups.
> 
> Stephen

> Stephanie wrote: "Has anyone tried this and how big a UPS do you have to
> get in order to keep 
> playing until the song is over?"
> 
Stephanie,

I have a 1000va UPS that I use for computer/drums/etc. Because I don't use
everything that is plugged into the UPS at one time, it works great. 

If you consider that the my three modules only use that  12watts, the mixer
less than 50watts, and the KC500 about 210watts,that all I really needed was
a 350VA unit. The UPS literature will tell you the battery time for fully
load and half load. Most UPS with give at a mininum of 15 minutes.  Now days
for under $100 you can get something that is more than adequate for your
needs. 


OGD
> 
> 
> 
> 
 
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