I was
hoping to be mature and not blame the tool, (i.e. kp60) but I was wondering if
it wasn't the pad.
I also
have had trouble with the little second hit and have adjusted pretty well, but I
really don't believe I should hear a beat when the beater is traveling away from
the head.
This
is my 1st experience with electronic percussion- just returning to playing after
almost 30 years away (lonnnnnng story) and I just want to be playing- not
constantly spending $ on constant upgrades. But...
Any
advice on "best bang for buck" . Has anyone tried the Pintech Ergokik Compact
Kick with Inverted Beater? It's way cheap ($35.00) and seems sensible, but also
is another hard rubber pad.
Thanks
all for thoughtful responses. More info is invited.
-----Original Message-----Hi Creighton,
From: liberatusvirus Sent: Monday, January 13, 2003 12:26 PM
To: DTXpress@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DTXpress] Re: Kick pad and double triggers
When I got my version of the DTXpress back in the 14th century, I
had a terrible time with the kick pad. I won't bore you with the
details, but one of the problems was double-triggering. I got so
flustered with the inconisistencies that I stopped tinkering and
bought one from another company. You'll notice that the archives of
2001/2 are littered with complaints about the KP60. The fact that
the latest version, which seems to have been redesigned--at least
cosmetically--hasn't attracted much grumbling seems to suggest that
it works better. I don't think that the piezo is overly sensitive to
temperature; mine double-triggered in a nice cozy room that didn't
vary much. But I wouldn't be surprised if the rubber pad got stiffer
in the cold. And the hardness of the rubber may well have something
to do with the double-triggering--notwithstanding the issues of self-
rejection, gain, and minimum velocity. I began to notice that my
beater almost imperceptively struck the hard pad twice. I could
eventually control it a little by concentrating on my technique, but
not enough to eliminate the problem. If this is what's happening to
you, you might glue part of an old mouse pad to it, and/or increase
the min. vel. setting, decrease the gain, and find a comfortable
self-rejection point. Unfortunately, however, these measures may
also further deaden the dynamic range, which, I agree, is not good
in the first place. It's hard to get a light hit no matter how you
set the parameters.
Maybe Walt or someone else can bear me out on this point, but the
polarity switch mainly permits the trigger to be used with equipment
that reverses polarity. Yamaha's modules make polarity adjustments
on the fly, rendering the issue irrelevant with its own triggers;
switching it shouldn't make any difference in your case.
Let us know how you make out. If you go the DIY route, or find an
alternate explanation for the difficulty, your experience wiil
certainly be valuable.
Ed
--- In DTXpress@yahoogroups.com, "creighton_higgins
" wrote:
> anyone here have any issues with stability of settings? Having
gotten
> my kick pad working ok- suddenly last night it starts double
> triggering- severely. Went to trigger settings and changed self-
> reject settings and saw some improvement, but if you pick too high
a
>; setting you cannot trigger fast enough. I'm wondering if piezos
are
> sensitive to temperature changes or if there is some inherent
> instability. All along I have had no success setting the kick pad
so
> I have a semblance of dynamic range- it has acted more like a
> switch:just 1 loudness no matter how hard or soft I whack the
thing.
>
> Since I have no manual for the kick tower- who can tell me the
> purpose of the polarity switch?
>
> Thanks.
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