--- In DTXpress@yahoogroups.com, "emf" <liberatusvirus@y...> wrote: > > --- In DTXpress@yahoogroups.com, "daddykingcool" <daddykingcool@y...> > wrote: > > > Will do and thnaks again. Out of interest when a drummer moves > from > > an acoustic kit to electronic does he/she need to drastically > adjust > > their technique? When I explained to the person I purcahsed the > kit > > from about the problem of pads not sounding his reply was: > > > > "You appear to be having difficulty with the kit, i can assure you > > that all electronic kits except top of the range ones function in > > this way. There is an expectation you would change your drumming > > style to suit the kit, as they are not as responsive as real > drums. > > You would need to have bought a kit with mesh heads. Also when > > playing live most drummers use the kit to trigger samples rather > > than rely on the on board sounds. May i suggest you go to a music > > shop and try another kit which will hopefully reassure you that i > > have not sold you a defective unit" > > > > Is this a fair reply? > > > > Darrell, > > There is an element of truth in what your seller told you. Problems > like crosstalk and the machine-gun effect come with the territory, > and they require an adjustment in expectations and technique--and > sometimes, as he says, in the particular electronic kit that you > ultimately choose. Electronic drums are instruments in their own > right, not simply approximations of their acoustic counterparts. > There have been many discussions, on this board and others, about the > extent to which people should consider e-drums and acoustics as > overlapping media. They are unquestionably variations on a similar > theme, but they diverge enough in their capacities to merit genuine > distinction, even though certain people (I being one of them) are > more interested in creating good acoustic-like sounds than in mining > the electronic side. > > Part of the difference is how you play them. When it comes to > physical exertion, electronic drums show the law of diminishing > returns far more quickly. Beyond a certain threshold, hitting them > any harder won't have any value. Not only do you court physical > injury when overplaying rubber pads; you can also mis-hit in a way > that causes dropouts in the sound or false triggers of one sort or > another or damage your equipment. And you won't get any louder for > your trouble (the difference in dynamic range and sensitivity between > acoustics and electronics is well in favor the former--no matter what > kit you play). You learn to let the module do the work. For example, > we've often advised newcomers having trouble with the performance of > their Yamaha cymbals to crash with more of a glancing blow than a > direct hit. Whenever a stick maintains contact with a cymbal for too > long, it risks having the cymbal behave in a contrary manner-- either > choking itself or voicing inopportunely. The same is true of, say, a > kick drum. If you're used to holding your pedal against your acoustic > bass drum and bring the same tendency to your elecronics, you're > courting unwanted double triggers. Learning how to program and play > your electronics over time pays huge dividends; it will become second > nature, without interfering with your acoustic technique. These are > just some examples of what playing a rubber kit entails. You trade a > certain kind of sensitivity, tonality, and subtlety for extraordinary > versatility when moving from acoustics to electronics. > > High-end e-kits behave, feel, and sound differently from the entry > level, more like acoustic kits in certain respects, though still only > approximately. Mesh head pads are built with shells like acoustic > drums, and the mesh heads look and feel (some more than others) like > mylar heads. They encourage the illusion of playing acoustics, but > many people find these woven heads, particularly those from Roland, > Pintech, and a few other companies, too bouncy. Mesh heads, however, > have represented a higher order of e-drum for a long time, though > some people prefer rubber. The Yamaha DTXtremeIIS uses a certain kind > of textured rubber that feels far superior to that on any other kit-- > whether a Yamaha, a Roland, a Pintech, et al.--but it cannot be > classified as entry-level. To its everlasting credit, it costs far > less than the Roland' top of the line TD-20 and gives Yamaha's > characteristic bang for the buck. > > Cymbals also show a hierarchy based on how well they simulate the > appearance and response of acoustics. Companies like Hart, > Smartrigger, and Pintech offer high-quality cymbals that often, but > not always, mate well with Yamaha modules. Mix and match is fun, but > it must be done with care. Not everything will work smoothly and > effectively in a Yamaha context. Most after-market equipment is > manufactured to meet Roland specifications, since Roland is the > market leader by far. But some companies have shown a willingness to > design specifically for Yamaha--a couple of them, Visu-lite and > Pintech (now linked) in direct response to us. Smartrigger has also > been working with a couple of us to produce Yamaha versions of their > attractive products; it remains to be seen how successful they will > be. > > The statement that e-drummers who play live tend to trigger samples > rather than use the stock voices in modules also has an element of > truth. Creating and triggering your own samples, or choosing them > from the countless offerings in computer software, can bring more > control to your sound. But it comes at great cost, in money, time, > and convenience. Drum modules are simply easier to use than > combinations of samplers, trigger interfaces, and computers. Also, a > few modules at this point have a limited sampling capacity of their > own (DTXtremeIIS, ddrum4, and Alessis Pro). Many drummers use their > modules unembellished for stage work, whether a DTXpress or something > more expensive. They can sound really stunning live--their warts, > like the machine-gun effect, often effectively disguised by effects, > room ambience, programming, and judicious playing. Nothing in the > world dictates that you can't like the voices on your module. Look > closely and you'll see the ddrum modules in Peter Gabriel's stage > arsenal; Tony Verderosa and Akira Jimbo use Yamaha, Neil Pert Roland-- > well, you get the idea. You'll be able to appreciate what you have-- > until you have the cash, need, or desire to move to something else > (upgrading, or simply changing, is an occupational hazard among e- > drummers, not unlike what audiophiles do). > > I've run my mouth, er fingers, off more than I intended, and I've > barely scratched the surface about e-drums. Hopefully, I've helped a > little bit. Hi Ed OK, I have now spent many hours playing around with settings and have managed to improve the kit. The problem of missing sounds is almost gone. I experimented with the Rejection settings, the gain, and set the pads to poly mode. The main setting that made a difference was the rejection settings. This took quite a bit of experimenting - if set very low solved my problem but then I got double triggers instead - so I had to tweak for a compromise. Everything else about the kit (sound, feel etc) I think is great but still don't really understand why this problem exists. I really cannot see how changeing my drumming style will make a difference. For example I sat just hitting the Hi Hat and snare together and the snare missed quite a few beats - I did the same with a tom and the Hi Hat and the Tom then missed odd beats. I notice that many people selling these kits on E-bay have built a custom snare stand. I guess this is so that they can turn the rejection down to avoid missed snare beats but yet still not get double triggers - does this make sense. It must be a common problem. I was wondering if the DTEXPRESS I is more prone to this than the version II or III - has this problem been addressed. Many thanks for your help. Darrell > > Ed
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Re: DTEXPRESS Trigger Problem
2005-03-17 by daddykingcool
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