You should make certain that you didn't grab a handful of expired batteries
before performing surgery...R-Shack doesn't cycle their inventory.
Assuming you're sure about the batteries and assuming you don't already know
all this gunk:
It's impossible to be sure from those pictures but it'll be either the black
or the blue electrolytic to the right of the battery holder in
'battery1.jpg'. If you have to make a guess, the black one is more likely
than the blue - only because it's slightly closer to the battery. If you can
verify that one of them is connected in parallel with the battery then that
will be the one most likely to be extra-leaky. A few Kohms of additional
leakage across those caps will drain a 2032 in a few weeks. It won't hurt
anything to replace them both.
Keep yourself (and nothing else) as grounded as possible, throughout the
operation, to avoid ESD damage and stray current damage. UNPLUG THE SYNTH
FROM THE WALL. Inductive voltages can build up on the iron and discharge
through one of the ICs if the synth is grounded in any way, which is a Bad
Thing. If you're grounded and nothing else is, there will be no problem.
If you have or can get water-based flux-core solder in a very-fine gauge
(18AWG or smaller), use that. It's easier to clean up the flux from the
board with the water-based stuff. You don't want to leave any flux behind as
it's usually corrosive and could cause a different failure later on. Don't
eat the solder. It contains lead. Don't scratch your eye, nose or ears with
the heated soldering iron because hot soldering irons are .. well .. hot.
Use a clean/silvered iron to remove the old parts after marking the + lead
on the PCB. Clean up any solder-balls that spatter about and remove the
excess solder from the solder pads on the PCB using wick, leaving two clean,
silvered holes where the capacitor used to be.
Make sure you keep the heat away from any of the silicon (the ICs) and make
sure you use the same value for replacements (it's OK to use a slightly
larger voltage rating as long as it will fit mechanically) and make
dead-certain you get the polarity correct.
When installing the new part(s), push them in the existing holes, from the
component side, until they bottom-out. Then, on the other side of the PCB,
bend one of the new leads in one direction and bend the other new lead in
the opposite direction. Don't cut the excess wire off until soldering is
complete. This will hold the part stationary during soldering which will
prevent the formation of microscopic fractures in the joint as the solder
cools.
Use just enough solder to get a solid bond and connection between the new
part(s) and the PCB. Too much solder can cause a short to adjacent lands on
the PCB. Try to keep the iron-to-PCB-contact-time to a minimum so you don't
fry the PCB traces off the phenolic board.
This really is a very low-risk procedure if you have even mediocre soldering
skills. Just take your time and keep the iron clean.
Oh yeah: no guarantee this will fix it. I'd put money on it though.
-Patrick
> -----Original Message-----
> From: ibenhad_twice@... [mailto:ibenhad_twice@...]
> Sent: Wednesday, March 02, 2005 10:13 PM
> To: AN1x-list@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [AN1x] AN1X Battery dies after 1 month HELP!!!!! Service
> Guide anyone?
>
>
>
> Pics are up in Battery Location folder in Photos. If you need more
> let me know and Thanks in advance. I would love to be able to use this
> without having to worry about the battery dying every couple of months.
>
> Peace
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Community email addresses:
> Post message: AN1x-list@yahoogroups.com
> Subscribe: AN1x-list-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Unsubscribe: AN1x-list-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> List owner: AN1x-list-owner@yahoogroups.com
>
> Shortcut URL to this page:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AN1x-list
>
> The AN1x Control Synthesizer FAQ::
> http://www.geocities.com/jondl_2000/an1x_faq/an1x_faq_toc.htm
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>