[sdiy] Potentiometer Heights

[harry]

Arrgh really ???

I always hold the unwanted shaft in the vice... then hacksaw. Then there is no
stress transmitted to the body.   Just put a pillow on the floor, or hold the body
'just' as it lets go.

Your method would be necessary if the shaft was slightly too long. In that case I
look for knobs that could cover up the shaft length error.

H^) harry

Peter Grenader wrote:

> Cyn
>
> This is a good Batz is suggesting here, but probably out of the question for
> you now in that (I bet) you are at the tail endof a project rather than the
> beginning and just want to faceplate mount your knobs without having them 3
> inches off the surface.
>
> I've gone through this mess you're going through.  I have a third hand/table
> vise with rubber stops. Dont wedge it in there too hard or you will surely
> cause damage to the wiper/coil.   I just snug the pot in there  held by the
> vise at its base on one end and the tip of the shaft at the other.  You just
> start slow and continue with minimal pressure on the saw -let the saw find
> it's groove and it goes fairly easily.  It doesn't take that long at all.
> without a vise though it could get ugly.
>
> It bugs me that this is about the only type of pot shafts you can find in
> walk-in stores.  Now, try finding 6mm ones...this gets even more
> mightmare-on-elm-streetish.
>
> hope this helps,
>
> P
>
> on 7/5/02 10:28 PM, Batz Goodfortune at batzman at all-electric.com wrote:
>
> > Y-ellow Cynthia 'n' all.
> >
> > At 11:33 AM 7/5/02 -0700, Cynthia Webster wrote:
> >> Sounds like the title of a new soap opera
> >>
> >> Stay tuned for next week's episode of
> >>
> >> "Potentiometer Heights"
> >
> > In which Cynthia shows her prowess as a 1337 haxor.
> >
> >> Anyway, here I am with a hacksaw going-at-it with a big bag of
> >> different length pot shafts and wondering if someone has a
> >> suggestion for an easier way to deal with this dilemma?
> >
> > Often, I have circumvented the whole problem by designing everything to
> > bolt to a sub-panel. The depth of which depends on the length of the shaft.
> > No cutting at all but some fabricating involved. Though the main reason for
> > this isn't really the pot-shaft cutting deal. The reason is that the pot
> > can then bolt to a flange behind the panel. It does not tighten on the
> > panel and if you've used a heat coated paper panel, this can be important
> > as the tension of doing up the nut will twist and/or rip the ply of the
> > panel markings. Not very pretty.
> >
> > This also allows you to use much smaller knobs. And knobs that don't have
> > skirts who's only real purpose is to hide the pot-nuts. And finally, by
> > using a sub panel, you can drill a tiny little hole through which the
> > securing flange that some pots have can protrude. Thus locking them in
> > place and preventing the pot from rotating. Even if the pot-nuts become lose.
> >
> > It's not always necessary to make an aluminium sub-panel either. You could
> > for example, make your PCB with holes in it for the pots to mount directly
> > to. Some over-sized lands on the solder side will even allow you to
> > virtually-surface mount, a standard ol' toy-shop-pot to the board. (Thankya
> > Roman) So in the end you can build your entire circus on one PCB and just
> > mount the PCB a "Pot-shaft's distance"tm under the main front panel.
> >
> > No wiring. No cutting and the pot's right smack bang in the middle of the
> > circus it's adjusting.
> >
> > Hope this helps.
> >
> > Be absolutely Icebox.
> >
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> >

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