[sdiy] Potentiometer Heights
Batz Goodfortune
batzman at all-electric.com
Sat Jul 6 06:28:56 CEST 2002
Y-ellow Cynthia 'n' all.
At 11:33 AM 7/5/02 -0700, Cynthia Webster wrote:
>Sounds like the title of a new soap opera
>
>Stay tuned for next week's episode of
>
>"Potentiometer Heights"
In which Cynthia shows her prowess as a 1337 haxor.
>Anyway, here I am with a hacksaw going-at-it with a big bag of
>different length pot shafts and wondering if someone has a
>suggestion for an easier way to deal with this dilemma?
Often, I have circumvented the whole problem by designing everything to
bolt to a sub-panel. The depth of which depends on the length of the shaft.
No cutting at all but some fabricating involved. Though the main reason for
this isn't really the pot-shaft cutting deal. The reason is that the pot
can then bolt to a flange behind the panel. It does not tighten on the
panel and if you've used a heat coated paper panel, this can be important
as the tension of doing up the nut will twist and/or rip the ply of the
panel markings. Not very pretty.
This also allows you to use much smaller knobs. And knobs that don't have
skirts who's only real purpose is to hide the pot-nuts. And finally, by
using a sub panel, you can drill a tiny little hole through which the
securing flange that some pots have can protrude. Thus locking them in
place and preventing the pot from rotating. Even if the pot-nuts become lose.
It's not always necessary to make an aluminium sub-panel either. You could
for example, make your PCB with holes in it for the pots to mount directly
to. Some over-sized lands on the solder side will even allow you to
virtually-surface mount, a standard ol' toy-shop-pot to the board. (Thankya
Roman) So in the end you can build your entire circus on one PCB and just
mount the PCB a "Pot-shaft's distance"tm under the main front panel.
No wiring. No cutting and the pot's right smack bang in the middle of the
circus it's adjusting.
Hope this helps.
Be absolutely Icebox.
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