When on, the 5514 gives me around 3.9 volts and off it reads about
1.9. Funny, though, that section looks clean and even the legs look
good (shiny metal). I only did a quick test the other night and
haven't removed 367 (again) to check for more continuity problems.
I was looking for replacements online but I mostly got a lot of links
to video-game repair. Here is a list of comparable replacements as
far as I can determine:
Toshiba 5514
Harris HM6514, National 6514, Fujitsu 6514
NEC 444, RCA 5114, Hitachi 4334
Is it safe to assume any one of these can replace the 5514?
The patch and bank section of the programming controls lock up on me
so I'm not able to test whether I can load in data.
Thanks.
--- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com, The Old Crow <oldcrow@o...> wrote:
>
> It almost beings to sound like the RAM chip went bad. I've
encountered
> '367s with dead RAM before. If you can, using a voltmeter check
the power
> pins of the RAM chip (pins 9 and 18) with the power on and then
with the
> power off. On, it should read around 4.5 volts. Off, it should
read
> around 2.5 to 3 volts, depending on battery type. I've seen where
the
> pins of a 5514 sram chip corrode, or worse, the corrosion enters
the chip
> body through the metal of one of more pins and eats the metal of
the pin
> away inside the chip even though the pin looks good.
>
> Another test is to load a set of voices from a tape or wav file
into the
> P6, then do a verify on the same tape/wav file to see if things got
> scrambled when trying to store. Other possible problems are the
4011
> (IC25) that controls the write access to the ramchip, or a
dead/overloaded
> bus buffer (IC30/IC31).
>
> Crow
> /∗∗/