> Sounds suspicious to me -- would suggest having the battery &
traces
> checked out by someone who's familiar with the circuit.
I will be giving it the ol' tinkerer's go at it first I think. I
figure, it's not usable to me until it's fully functional (I've been
through trying to use a crippled CS-80 and it really became
frustrating), so if I'm successful then good for me, but if I'm not I
get the board fixed or replaced and it's still good for me.
I've been reading up on the mechanics and end-results of the battery
leakage issue; I've learned a lot about what happened like the
battery doesn't need to burst to be leaking (my Poly 61 did this),
and that the corrosion can travel up the traces over time. I also
learned that the battery was replaced in 1997, but that it still had
problems afterward. Since then it sat in storage.
I've read up on how to identify the bad traces, and I think I can
salvage the top, especially since after some cleaning last night I
believe the IC legs are all okay. I'll have to remove the board and
see what the bottom looks like. I'd have to remove that board anyway.
>> These control lines from the front panel feed into the board via a
> connector (CN06, if I recall correctly -- don't have the schematics
in
> front of me). That connector is near the end of the board that is
most
> susceptible to damage from battery leaks (which I'm assuming
happened in
> this case).
Yeah, that makes total sense. I can simply follow the traces to that
connector and see where they're going and if they're not conducting
or the trace's destination is malfunctioning.
>
> As far as the leds staying on -- if the functions work, it's not
too severe
> a problem -- most likely one or two signal traces shorted by the
leak problem.
>
>
I couldn't find an answer to this matter in my research, although one
person in a Google Groups search asked about a very similar
circumstance but wasn't replied to. Based on what I've pieced
together, these buttons are tied to the board in question as well,
and that it's possible an IC has a bad connection or is itself
malfunctioning.
>
> Depends -- some battery-damaged boards are an easy fix, and work
just
> fine once the damage has been repaired; some take a lot more time
& trouble.
> So, it depends on how much time, effort & expense you're willing to
put
> into it.
> Where are you located? Might be able to help out, at least as far
as
> establishing the repairability of the board.
>
> ~GMM
Thank you very much for your kind offer. I live in Buffalo, NY if
you are anywhere near by. I can offer coffee and some bad jokes.
I think I've made up my mind since I posted intially that I'll try
and learn from this first. Then, if I'm not successful, Old Crow
could bail me out (for a fee, of course). I hope I'm successful,
because it'll just really enhance the relationship I'll have with the
instrument. Not to say swapping boards wouldn't be enough, but, I
guess it's a goofy thing. I'm very excited to get it working no
matter how it occurs.
Anyway, I'm still fishing for any advice and guidance the community
here can provide.
Thanks!
Rich