Haha...figures. Okay, I'll report back after doing some more poking around over the next few days. Cheers.
--- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com, "backshall1" <backshall1@...> wrote:
>
> That's a nice meter. On the Rx1 scale you should easily be able to see if
> any tracks are approaching 1 ohm, which is a sign they should be fixed. Just
> make sure it's zeroed properly. I said digital meter because most analog
> meters aren't very accurate on that low scale. If the previous owner said
> this Polysix was working fine a few years ago, then I think his definition
> of a "few" is different than mine. I would guess a decade or more.
>
> Don B.
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: PolySix@yahoogroups.com [mailto:PolySix@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
> traxus12
> Sent: Wednesday, August 07, 2013 4:25 PM
> To: PolySix@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [PolySix] Re: Help! Repairing a Polysix with burst battery (sound
> demo + photos!)
>
>
>
>
>
> Thanks! I'll try that. Hopefully I can find the culprit. By the way, I'm
> using a Simpson 260-8XI analog multimeter.
>
> I just remembered that the previous owner mentioned it was working fine when
> he got it from his school a few years ago and it had just been sitting in
> his garage since then. So whatever went wrong happened within the last few
> years, if that's any clue.
>
> --- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com <mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com> ,
> "backshall1" <backshall1@> wrote:
> >
> > That board doesn't look too bad at all. Most look much worse after a
> battery
> > leak. Unfortunately that means there is no easy way to point to the
> problem
> > without some long and tedious debugging. You will need a digital
> multimeter,
> > not just something that goes "beep", and you will need the schematics. It
> > sounds like a problem on the D0-D7 data bus coming off of IC30 and IC31
> and
> > you will need to check those traces again and actually measure the
> > resistance. Any trace more than 0.5 ohms should probably be fixed. The
> data
> > bus connects many chips together and you will need to check between each
> > chip, which is why you will need the schematics to see which pins on which
> > chips should be connected. As mentioned by Andy Jury in several old posts,
> a
> > good way to do this is to check continuity from connector CN10 to each of
> > these chips: IC 30, 31, 26, 24, 33, 28, 29, 34, 35 and CN06 on each of the
> > eight bus lines. Like I said, tedious.
> >
> > You will have to watch out for the mislabeled chip in the diagram. There
> are
> > two IC 34 in the diagram. The one beside IC 30 is actually IC 24.
> >
> >
> >
> > Don Backshall
> >
> >
> >
> > _____
> >
> > From: PolySix@yahoogroups.com <mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:PolySix@yahoogroups.com <mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com> ] On
> Behalf Of
> > traxus12
> > Sent: Wednesday, August 07, 2013 5:02 AM
> > To: PolySix@yahoogroups.com <mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com>
> > Subject: [PolySix] Re: Help! Repairing a Polysix with burst battery (sound
> > demo + photos!)
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Sorry, some of my formatting didn't make it through to the final post. I
> > meant to include these.
> >
> > sound demo:
> > https://soundcloud.com/ocguitar/korg-polysix-death-sounds
> >
> > Bank D and Program 4 constantly illuminated:
> > http://imgur.com/TFEPUPB
> >
> > Thank you! Any advice would be appreciated.
> > -Steve
> >
> > --- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com <mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com>
> <mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com> ,
> > "traxus12" <ocguitar@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Hello! I picked up a Korg Polysix recently and I've been trying to bring
> > > it back to life. Nothing I've done has changed anything yet so I'm at a
> > > bit of an impasse and I'm hoping someone out there might be able to help
> > > me narrow down what I should do next. I know how to use a soldering iron
> > > but I'm a complete beginner at repairing circuit board traces.
> > >
> > > Let me give you the symptoms.
> > >
> > > 1. It sounds like it's gone absolutely mental with constant oscillation
> > > and other insanity going on from the moment I power it up.
> > > 2. The Bank D and Program 4 buttons are constantly illuminated after
> > > powering up.
> > >
> > > After cleaning up most of the corrosion I could find around the battery,
> > > it really didn't look as bad as I thought it might so I went ahead and
> > > just installed a Lithium battery holder (using Old Crow's guide) and
> > > tried powering up again. Nothing changed.
> > >
> > > After that, I went back in and removed the IC31 chip (74LS08) and tested
> > > all the traces in the area with a multimeter. Every trace I tested gave
> > > me a happy little beep, even the uglier looking ones that were near the
> > > old battery, so I went ahead and soldered in a new socket and 74LS08
> > > chip at IC31. Powered up. Nothing changed.
> > >
> > > Now, I'm not sure what to do. Did I miss a trace? Should I put jumper
> > > wires on the ugly looking traces even if my multimeter says they're
> > > conducting just fine? Should I replace the other ICs that were near the
> > > battery like IC30 even if they look fine?
> > >
> > > I recorded a sound demo. For the first 40 seconds I don't touch a thing,
> > > then I start to experiment:
> > >
> > >
> > > Bank D and Program 4 constantly illuminated:
> > >
> > >
> > > First sight:
> > > <http://imgur.com/Wv173WQ>
> > >
> > > After initial cleanup:
> > > <http://imgur.com/M8POlkz>
> > >
> > > Installed battery:
> > > <http://imgur.com/Pj3kDFT>
> > >
> > > Replaced IC31:
> > > <http://imgur.com/Nab9GYz>
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>