Thanks. I haven't tried that. I'll check it out. It's nice to have a little more direction now. I wish the problem were more obvious. It reminds me of "Where's Waldo/Wally?" except there's a thousand people in the picture and Waldo looks exactly like everyone else.
--- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com, "Chromatest J. Pantsmaker" <chromatest@...> wrote:
>
> A debugging rule that people overlook is that not only do you want to
> check "low-resistance" continuity between your points (your DMM's
> "beep" might trigger like this, they vary), but you want to make sure
> that there is ∗NO∗ continuity between neighboring traces. Sometimes,
> a neighboring trace might be on the other side of the board. Luckily,
> these boards are only 2-sided!
>
> Here's the schematics:
> http://www.chromatest.net/POLY6_Service_Ensemble.pdf
>
> Good luck!
>
> -chromatest
>
> On Wed, Aug 7, 2013 at 5:47 AM, Djé <onoffart@...> wrote:
> > Hi Steve,
> > The D(SW12) and 4(SW18)Switches uses the same line in the Programmer matrix, identified P13, Pin-5 of CN10 welded to the KLM-371(programmer board)
> > On the KLM-371 between the SW15(PROGRAM-1) & the SW16(PROGRAM-2) you have a Fixing screw.
> > The P13 trace pass just above,
> > removed this screw and turn on the P6 on says us !
> > All the Best
> > Djé
> >
> > --- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com, "traxus12" <ocguitar@> wrote:
> >>
> >> Sorry, some of my formatting didn't make it through to the final post. I meant to include these.
> >>
> >> sound demo:
> >> https://soundcloud.com/ocguitar/korg-polysix-death-sounds
> >>
> >> Bank D and Program 4 constantly illuminated:
> >> http://imgur.com/TFEPUPB
> >>
> >> Thank you! Any advice would be appreciated.
> >> -Steve
> >>
> >> --- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com, "traxus12" <ocguitar@> wrote:
> >> >
> >> > Hello! I picked up a Korg Polysix recently and I've been trying to bring
> >> > it back to life. Nothing I've done has changed anything yet so I'm at a
> >> > bit of an impasse and I'm hoping someone out there might be able to help
> >> > me narrow down what I should do next. I know how to use a soldering iron
> >> > but I'm a complete beginner at repairing circuit board traces.
> >> >
> >> > Let me give you the symptoms.
> >> >
> >> > 1. It sounds like it's gone absolutely mental with constant oscillation
> >> > and other insanity going on from the moment I power it up.
> >> > 2. The Bank D and Program 4 buttons are constantly illuminated after
> >> > powering up.
> >> >
> >> > After cleaning up most of the corrosion I could find around the battery,
> >> > it really didn't look as bad as I thought it might so I went ahead and
> >> > just installed a Lithium battery holder (using Old Crow's guide) and
> >> > tried powering up again. Nothing changed.
> >> >
> >> > After that, I went back in and removed the IC31 chip (74LS08) and tested
> >> > all the traces in the area with a multimeter. Every trace I tested gave
> >> > me a happy little beep, even the uglier looking ones that were near the
> >> > old battery, so I went ahead and soldered in a new socket and 74LS08
> >> > chip at IC31. Powered up. Nothing changed.
> >> >
> >> > Now, I'm not sure what to do. Did I miss a trace? Should I put jumper
> >> > wires on the ugly looking traces even if my multimeter says they're
> >> > conducting just fine? Should I replace the other ICs that were near the
> >> > battery like IC30 even if they look fine?
> >> >
> >> > I recorded a sound demo. For the first 40 seconds I don't touch a thing,
> >> > then I start to experiment:
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > Bank D and Program 4 constantly illuminated:
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > First sight:
> >> > <http://imgur.com/Wv173WQ>
> >> >
> >> > After initial cleanup:
> >> > <http://imgur.com/M8POlkz>
> >> >
> >> > Installed battery:
> >> > <http://imgur.com/Pj3kDFT>
> >> >
> >> > Replaced IC31:
> >> > <http://imgur.com/Nab9GYz>
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >> >
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------------
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
>