Hi,
Sorry, no.
I was thinking of finding them, but lazyness won again :)
I just ordered a set from vintageplanet.nl
Since I just did 1 P6 I didn't really care if I didn't get the lowest price. Convenience can cost a bit as well ;)
If you're doing 3 it may be better for you to buy from regular suppliers, like the ones you mentioned.
Just remove a switch and you will see what they look like and you can make measurements.
There's a photo of them on vintageplanet.nl as well I think.
I'm think they're 12x12mm and that's pretty standard. Just make sure they're flat :)
The Matrix-6 for instance, uses 12x12 mm switches, but they have a little mounting thing on top to allow mounting a button top on it.
BR,
Peter
----- Original Message -----
From: syntegrator
To: PolySix@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, June 06, 2012 12:32 AM
Subject: [PolySix] Re: Polysix service checklist for the amateur ;)
Peter, do you have a DigiKey, Farnell or Mouser part number for the Polysix tact switches? I believe the originals are ALPS, but the details elude me right now.
I am overhauling 3 Polysixes right now on my YouTube channel, so this information would be most helpful... ;-)
Syntegrator
--- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com, Peter Mörck <peterm@...> wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> You didn't mention the obvious point that should come _before_anything_else_ :
> - Replace the old crappy NiCd battery with a Li cell and do the charging mod.
> It _will_ go bad, sooner or later.
>
> But, since you mentioned reading threads and oldcrows site, I guess you already know about it.
> In any case, if it's the original battery, get it out, even if it looks good.
>
> I replaced the panel switches on my P6. They're regular PCB buttons you can buy new and cheap today (the actual switches that sit underneath the buttons). Mine needed replacing as some didn't respond easily.
> Other than that I guess it might need some tuning/calibration after replacing components.
> Though if it sounds good, don't touch the calibration. No point in it, and it can potentially screw things up :)
>
> If your keyboard is working fine (triggers OK), then don't touch that either.
> You can also get dust and stuff in there that may make things work worse than before.
>
> But in general (battery and some caps excluded), I'd say: If it ain't broken...
>
> Also, I see you added the battery now, just before I was going to press send, but I'll leave my comment, as it can never be repeated enough :)
>
> BR,
> Peter
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: analoglove
> To: PolySix@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Tuesday, June 05, 2012 10:40 PM
> Subject: [PolySix] Polysix service checklist for the amateur ;)
>
>
>
> I'm planning on doing some basic maintenance on my old Polysix. I've been reading threads and manuals found here on this group, excellent tips, thanks!
>
> I thought I'd like to make a 'basics' checklist, not about solving specific problems but just best practice for the owner who wants to take care of the synth, and keep it sounding fresh and strong.
>
> 1) Electrolytic capacitors: My synth is sounding quite dusty and a bit dull at this point, so I'll put in new electrolytic capacitors, a reasonable thing to do after 30 years. I'm going with mainly Vishay 517Ds available at Mouser.
>
> 2) I'm putting in all new 4000-series ICs, as recommended here (Old Crow): http://www.oldcrows.net/~oldcrow/synth/tips.txt
> I'm getting TI's series with the CD4xxxBE or CD4xxxBEE4 part numbers.
>
> Is there anything else that you would do without hesitation? I mean, I know that there may be some tuning work involved also, but I'm thinking about whether there's more hardware that should be replaced?
>
> Would you take the time to swap all the old resistors, or at least those made of carbon?
> Would you bother to swap the mylar and ceramic caps, or are you thinking that they will keep on trucking for years to come?
>
> Hope to hear your inputs before I start operating, and I'm hoping not to fix what really, really doesn't need fixing ;)
>
> Thanks,
> Analoglove
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
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