On a battery-damaged reconditioned board, there are endless possibilities.
The synth was working when I repaired it (for whoever you purchased it
from) -- however, it's not uncommon for new problems to surface.
The easiest thing to do is send the board back to me, so I can see
what's what & what isn't.
Also, the serial number of the synth would be helpful, so I can check my
notes & find out when I worked on this & what was done (I've done about
sixty of these things, and I can't keep them in memory).
~GMM
analogsynthservice.com
ieinzz wrote:
>
>
> Turns out I don't have the clone board. Underneath it looks worked on,
> isn't signed, and I have the cross head trimmers on the topside. My
> problem seems to be exactly the issue with the new boards however. I'm
> getting instability in the programmer section with the write switch
> writing to different programs and program switches 5-8 selecting banks
> and different programs. Are there any known issues with C23 on the
> original boards? I'm looking at C23 on my board and it's a small
> ceramic reading "22". I'd have no trouble doing basic
> soldering/desoldering but it appears I'm close to getting over my head!
>
> --- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com <mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com>,
> Andrew Jury <andy@...> wrote:
> >
> > Hi,
> >
> > You can easily tell if you have a clone board fitted. You¹ll find
> that there
> > are six trimmer controls in the centre of the board. If they are
> round and
> > have cross heads this is an original board. If they are rectangle
> and have
> > slotted adjustment heads this a clone board. In order to fix this
> problem
> > you will need to replace C23 on the board with a 10nF ceramic disk
> > capacitor. Any electronics tech or even you should be able to do
> this if you
> > can solder!
> >
>
>
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