Ah, well, you see... Things ain't what they used to be, but for the better,
I think. The print layout on the clone board fits the device on the link
perfectly, rather than trying to jam a CR2032 holder in sideways! ...and
really, the device suggested is a lithium type rather than the old blue
nickel cadmium sort. The CR2032 should be good for many years with that
current drain and I am hoping that it is sealed enough not to leak lithium
into the air. If it ever did then... Remember those experiments in the
chemistry lab at school with elements at the top of the reactivity series?!
However, I think you are right in saying the term 'Varta' is one to bring
tears to the eyes of any Polysix owner!
Bye for now,
Andy
On 21/08/2010 20:53, "longenough2002" <backshall1@bellsouth.net> wrote:
> Ooh, just seeing that name makes me cringe. Was that a bit of your sadistic
> side creeping through to specify a Varta battery? And I think you meant the
> 6032101501 not 6032401501. I hope nobody is considering a soldered battery
> ;)
>
> Don B.
>
> _____
>
> From: PolySix@yahoogroups.com [mailto:PolySix@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
> y964omw
> Sent: Saturday, August 21, 2010 2:59 PM
> To: PolySix@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [PolySix] Re: (new) KLM-367 Calibration
>
>
>
>
> Oh and just one other thing? The CR2032 battery is in the holder upside
> down! This might be down to the way you have orientated the holder, but
> traditionally + should face skywards. The right battery for the clone is
> this one here:
>
> http://uk.farnell.com/varta/6032401501/cell-coin-pcb-3v/dp/249877?Ntt=249877
>
> Not that this affects your calibration, but worth mentioning all the same!
>
> Cheers,
> andy
>
> --- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com <mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com> , "Daniel
> A" <apophis93@...> wrote:
>>
>> Thanks Andy for the help.
>>
>> I am the opposite I prefer Daniel ;)
>>
>> - Daniel
>>
>> --- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com <mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com> , Andrew
> Jury <andy@> wrote:
>>>
>>> Hi Daniel,
>>>
>>> Is it Dan or Daniel? I have a friend call Dan and you never call him
> Daniel
>>> because he doesn¹t like it!
>>>
>>> Back to business. I see what you mean now I have the picture in front of
> me.
>>> I was looking at the power supply end, hence the mix up.
>>>
>>> The lone wire is to exclusively provide the anode of D1 (MG LED) with
> +5v.
>>> The cut in the track is to disconnect this end of the LED from the main
> +5v
>>> rail which comes in on a side connector. This looks like a factory mod.
> All
>>> my Polys have it! Make sure the lone wire runs from the it¹s current
>>> location, back to the power supply and disconnect the other wire you
> have
>>> added. Don¹t ask me why they chose to run the LED bias voltage on a
> separate
>>> wire? They must have had their reasons...
>>>
>>> As for the 367 problems. I will study the pictures in depth in a
> moment...
>>>
>>> Be back soon...
>>>
>>> Andy
>>>
>>>
>>> On 21/08/2010 07:42, "Daniel A" <apophis93@> wrote:
>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Andy,
>>>>
>>>> Here are links to pics of the Polysix boards in question:
>>>>
>>>> 369 : Loose Blue wire and cut trace:
>>>> http://www.asurarecords.com/pics/polysix/IMG_1776.JPG
>>>>
>>>> 367 : Here is the build I have been working on, do note that Mouser
> sent some
>>>> of the Metal-oxide resistors that are 1/2 watt vs 1/4 watt. There are
> 4
>>>> installed. I may go find 1/4 watt to replace but did not think this
> factor
>>>> would affect the board. If I am wrong please let me know ;) If you see
>>>> anything else send me a note.
>>>>
>>>> http://www.asurarecords.com/pics/polysix/IMG_1779.JPG
>>>> http://www.asurarecords.com/pics/polysix/IMG_1794.JPG
>>>> http://www.asurarecords.com/pics/polysix/IMG_1795.JPG
>>>> http://www.asurarecords.com/pics/polysix/IMG_1796.JPG
>>>>
>>>> Thanks!
>>>> Daniel
>>>>
>>>> --- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com <mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com>
> <mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com> , Andrew
>>>> Jury <andy@> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Daniel,
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Do you mean R2? This is in the MG routing circuit! Suffice to say
> you
>>>>>> description of the reset adjustment sound correct. If the top panel
>>>>> controls
>>>>>> are set to default and you switched the 367 to test, but you can¹t
> get the
>>>>>> LEDs to positions 1 and 8 then have a very carefully examination of
> the
>>>>>> circuitry around IC33. If you have a logic probe confirm you have a
> pulse
>>>>>> train on data bus DO0-7 (pins 5 to 12). Also carefully verify all
> the
>>>>>> resistive values of the components around IC27 and make sure C28 is
>>>>>> correctly polarised. Also test the continuity of the test switch!
> If you
>>>>>> want a second eye on the board take a shot close up and post it for
> us to
>>>>>> see. Someone eagled eyed might see the problem.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> If you still can¹t spot the problem. Let me know and I will measure
> some
>>>>>> voltages from a working board for you to compare with.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On my P6 the blue wire is tacked onto the left-hand side of J2. D1
> is part
>>>>>> of a current limiting circuit before final 5v rail output.
> Therefore, D1
>>>>>> should not be directly connected to the blue wire! The best place
> is either
>>>>>> as I have described or sometime there is a pad on the output 5v
> rail in the
>>>>>> top left-hand corner of the PSU.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Hope this helps,
>>>>>> Andy
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
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>
>
>