> Actually just wanted to check that you already knew about adjusting the
> internal pot for LFO-frequency well into the audiable spectrum...
I haven't checked that yet, no. I would expect the oscillation to be
controlled by a resistor/capacitor pair
somewhere, and the capacitor looks like it would be C19. (?) The value is
22uF, and it's an electrolytic
cap it seems from the diagram. Is this the capacitor controlling LFO speed,
or am I entirely wrong?
But maybe a change of the proper resistor could do the job equally well.
> works
> well enough for me anyway but I guess thats only like the same as using a
> oscillator in the 2' range or something...
That would be 32' or 16' range in MiniMoog speak. I would like to go some
3-4 octaves higher! Quite
a radical modification. The thing is that modulation with low frequencies is
not as exciting as
modulation with higher frequencies. Up there you find the bell-sounds, etc.
Ideally all ranges should be
available (and the LFO should have some keyboard follow too - although you
would have to make
decisions about which key decides the keyboard follow). But even one fixed
well-chosen
high freq range will produce so many great sounds. Since the LFO can
modulate VCO, VCA or
VCF, all the classic fixed-freq Moog modulations would be possible. In fact,
the Mini won't even
be able to modulate VCA.
In principle all the MG sources could be brought into audio range with
interesting results. PWM
with an audio range modulation is another cool type of sound. But I still
think that the best and
easiest obtainable results will be from the LFO.
Open question: Would it damage the other circuits to go into the higher
audio range?
> maybe by changing the internal
> pot with a higher value you would be able to expand the range of the
> LFO-speed...
> otherwise putting a circuit with a additional resistor in
> series with the internal pot would do the trick (and making that circuit
> switchable off coarse)...
Yes, but shouldn't it be lower values rather than higher to increase
frequency?
It would be the cleanest modification to have a resistor on the switchable
pot indeed, as that
would require very little messing with the board itself.
Do you think I would fry the circuits with some cautious experimentation. I
mean, were talking about
a timer here, and not an op-amp, so I would expect it to be fairly robust
and built for many frequency ranges. Just as long as I am sure I'm replacing
the correct components. And that would be C19 and,
eh... R?? Which one is the internal pot? (I do have the diagrams with me,
but I want to be sure).
Thanks
Frank Carvalho
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