You know, I did add 1/32" to the 8.75" high sides for
a little extra insurance. However, I cut my 24u
∗exactly∗ 42" wide and I still have small gaps on the
sides, about 1/16" each. Thats a great idea about
using the foam strips.
I didnt put a solid piece on the back but rather left
it open. The bad: the cabinet does not sit quite flat
and neither does anything on top of it. The good:
the cabinet is not particularly heavy. Mounting the
PSU on the back helped balance it.
Hans
--- wjhall11 <
wjhall@...> wrote:
> Thanks for all the help, guys. I'll make the
> spacing 7-3/4".
>
> I've created some schematic drawing of the face
> plates of MOTM
> modules. I'm using these to plan my synth - but in
> the long run to
> create patch sheets to record my patches (borrowing
> an idea from a
> friend who had such sheets for the Synthi-A he sold
> me of yore). It
> occurred to me that they might come in handy for
> others to use. I'm
> loading them to a website I have. I'll put out the
> URL when I'm
> finished loading them nicely.
>
> Thanks for the tip about the weight, Dave. I'm
> going to put handles
> on the side of the cabinet to make carrying it
> easier and I had
> thought I'd better put them to the front. Per your
> warning, I
> certainly will.
>
> Thanks again. Bill
>
>
>
>
> --- In motm@yahoogroups.com, "djbrow54" <davebr@...>
> wrote:
> >
> > I made my openings 1/16" wider and taller than the
> panels.
> >
> > My height is 8 13/16" with 1/2" top and bottom
> rails that I faced with
> > Stooge metal rails. I inset the face of the panel
> 1/8" from the
> > outside edge. The external depth is 10" which has
> been plenty. I
> > have a 1/4" rear panel and my front panels are
> inset so the internal
> > depth is 9 1/2".
> >
> > I was a bit concerned with having the cabinets be
> exactly square so I
> > allowed a bit more side to side spacing on one
> cabinet I built. I
> > allowed and extra 1/8" which does leave visible
> gaps on each end. I
> > used a piece of adhesive backed 1/4" open cell
> foam and lined each
> > side of the cabinet just at the rear edge of the
> panel. That worked
> > great to hide and seal the edges.
> >
> > I've got a few photos on
> > http://modularsynthesis.com/cabinet/cabinet.htm
> > that show some of the construction details.
> >
> > I really like the Stooge rails and would rather
> have metal than wood.
> > One alternativie since the Stooge rails aren't
> available would be to
> > use standard rack rails like
> >
>
http://www.musiciansfriend.com/product/Middle-Atlantic-18Space-Rack- > > Rails?sku=549508
> >
> > I have built a couple of racks using standard rack
> rails and would
> > think they would work just fine. The ones I used
> were 5/8" wide so
> > you would have to increase the internal opening to
> 9" which would
> > leave a 1/8" gap across the top and bottom of the
> module, but with a
> > nice black anodized rail behind it to hide it.
> Or, if you are fancy
> > with a table saw, dado in a 1/8" deep grove to set
> the rack rail into.
> >
> > One mistake I made with my cabinets is that all
> the weight is in the
> > front. I put mine on center pivots and really had
> to use non-slip
> > washers to lock the cabinets in place.
> >
> > Dave
> >
> >
> > -- In motm@yahoogroups.com, "wjhall11" <wjhall@>
> wrote:
> > >
> > > All - new to MOTM, I'm designing a case for the
> modules I'll be
> > > building. I'll build the case out of wood - and
> I'm planning to
> > screw
> > > the moduldes directly into wood rails - top and
> bottom. In your
> > > experience, what should the optimal spacing
> between the rails be?
> > > Based on the face plates of the module kits I've
> recieved, I'm
> > > thinking 7-7/8" should do the trick. Sound
> right? Thanks much.
> > Bill
> > >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________________
Cheap talk?
Check out Yahoo! Messenger's low PC-to-Phone call rates.
http://voice.yahoo.com