What they said :) But be ∗sure∗ to predrill the holes or you run the
risk of splitting the wood. That's bad ...
Mike
--- In motm@yahoogroups.com, "Adam Schabtach" <adam@...> wrote:
>
> What he said. My modules are mounted on wood rails using square-drive
> pan-head wood screws. Works fine. I suppose if you were to
eventually strip
> a hole you could fill it with wood putty (or glue and toothpicks) and
> redrill it, which is more than you can say for stripped metal threads.
>
> --Adam
>
>
> _____
>
> From: John Loffink [mailto:jloffink@...]
> Sent: Wednesday, July 19, 2006 12:25 PM
> To: 'Tkacs, Ken'; 'MOTM Forum All'
> Subject: RE: [motm] Flat rails, anyone?
>
>
>
> If flat rails become unavailable, then using solid oak trim is a good
> solution. I tested a piece for #8 screw threading and removal and
gave up
> after 60-70 tries. It seemed like it would never wear out. Just
make sure
> the pilot hole isn't too big, and use the screw to form the threads
inside
> the wood. As I mount my flat rails to oak anyway since the mounting
holes
> in plywood "float" too much, making the rail position imprecise, the
flat
> rails seem to be a nice but extraneous and expensive feature. They are
> easily the most expensive part of my cabinets.
>
>
>
> I used this same method for a Wiard 300 cabinet, which uses smaller #4
> screws, and it is working just fine.
>
>
>
> http://www.wavemakers-synth.com/motm/diy_resources.html
>
>
>
> John Loffink
>
> The Microtonal Synthesis Web Site
>
> http://www.microtonal-synthesis.com
>
> The Wavemakers Synthesizer Web Site
>
> http://www.wavemakers-synth.com
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: motm@yahoogroups.com [mailto:motm@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf
Of Tkacs,
> Ken
> Sent: Wednesday, July 19, 2006 12:58 PM
> To: MOTM Forum All
> Subject: FW: [motm] Flat rails, anyone?
>
>
>
>
>
> >>>>>
>
> Hi all,
>
>
>
> I'm building a 24U wide, two row cabinet, and I need flat rails to
mount the
>
>
> modules. After all the drama, I assume it is no longer for sale
anywhere?
>
>
>
> <<<<<
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Another thing that you can do in a pinch is use normal rack rails.
What I
> mean by that is the kind of rails that you would buy if you were
> constructing your own 19" rack enclosure. I only looked at these
quickly,
> but something like this:
>
>
>
> http://www.americanmusical.com/item--i-RAX-RKRL6--m-11_65_271.html
>
>
>
> I used such a setup for a while before diving into the woodworking.
In fact,
> this might be the same exact brand that I used. I had three pairs of
these
> rails about 12u "high" each. Turned horizontally, I bolted two of
the pair
> together back-to-back (they are L-shaped in cross-section), with the
third
> pair split as the "top" and "bottom" rails. After bolting a bunch of
MOTM
> modules to these, the whole thing holds itself together with no
other back
> or sides (naturally, for your safety and the safety of your modules, you
> wouldn't want to leave it like this, but as an interim measure, this
worked
> for me).
>
>
>
> All I'm saying is that if the Stooge flat rails are ever really gone for
> good, maybe turning to something like these rails and building a cabinet
> around them would be the way to go.
>
>
>
> One thing to be aware of - the tapped holes in a 19" rack are a size
larger
> than those in the Stooge flat rails. I don't remember the exact sizes
> off-hand, but if Paul is shipping #8x32 machine screws with the modules,
> then you need #10x32 I think for the rack (whatever standard rack-mount
> screws are). The holes in the corners of MOTM modules "just about
exactly"
> pass a #10, so you may end up nicking the paint a little bit
(inside, in the
> mounting holes normally covered by the screws). Just mentioning this
because
> it's not and perfect fit and if you're sloppy the screws may dig
into the
> sides of the mounting holes a tad.
>
>
>
> But it does work. And they're relatively cheap. There are other lengths
> available - see the sidebar at right.
>
>
>
> Hope this helps.
>
>
>
> Ken T.
>