1. Need 12U, end buttable for a total of 24U (I misquoted my cab earlier,
it's actually 24U). This takes care of top and bottom rails easily.
2. Need some workable solution for a center rail in a 2 module high cab.
Gaps between the rows are NOT acceptable cosmetically. This system is too
nice to allow that. So we need rails with short sharp radius bends, that
have the holes spaced back from the edge such that you can bolt the module
right to the edge of the rail. If the 12U rails mentioned in (1) above
satisfy this criterion, then we can just use them bolted together back to
back for the center rail.
Dave Bradley
Principal Software Engineer
Engineering Animation, Inc.
daveb@... >
> From: "J. Larry Hendry" <jlarryh@...>
>
> > From: "Paul Schreiber" <synth1@...>
> >
> > Actually, when I "undig" in about 2 weeks I'll have
> > the sheet metal shop quote a 12U "end buttable"
> > rail with the small bend radius used on the 19A
> > rails. These will have a wider back flange with
> > countersunk holes for wood screws. You can line
> > them up end-to-end as long as your heart's content.
>
> I would be very interested in these rails. I agree that 12U end buttable
> would be a decent length or maybe about 14U. I think it would be nice if
> you could get the length to 1/2 the longest expected span. I mention 14U
> because I recall that Dave B was going to be about 26 (maybe my memory
> ain't so good). Could you get them to 14U without going to the expensive
> brake?
>
> I would NOT countersink the holes on the back flange. Some of these might
> be bolted back to back instead of screwed to wood. Anyone
> wanting to screw
> to wood can - 1:countersink them himself, 2: use sheet metal screws into
> wood like a true American.
>
> > The "problem" still remains about a 'double row'
> > system without some flat board in-between to
> > screw the rails to.
>
> Actually, I don't see this as a problem. Each case builder may deal with
> this in his own way. For me, I plan to have my multiple row
> (magic bus) in
> between. However, even of a person only wanted to bolt two rows back to
> back, it still works OK if you do the splicing correctly. Splice
> as shown:
>
> upper row: = = = = = = = = = = = =s= = = = = = = = = = = =
> lower row: = = = = = =s= = = = = = = = = = = =s= = = = = =
>
> This shows how four 12 space rails could be spliced, cutting one of them
> into two 6-space units causing the lower splices to be staggered from the
> upper splice. The splice points would be user selectable based on width.
> It would be cool if the mounting holes on the long flange side were in
> multiples of unit width so they would line up for any varied width (one
> every 1.75").
>
> For Barlow, he gets by with 3 rails in the middle (sell them in pairs
> though so he has to buy an extra one).
>
> upper: = = = = = = = = = = = = = =s= = = = = = = 14+7
> lower: = = = = = = =s= = = = = = = = = = = = = = 7+14
>
> Three of the 14u rails with staggered splices gets 21 units wide. Of
> course, I am making a dangerous assumption that the Curly stooge can
> operate a metal saw.
>
> And, of course, this still leaves open the "anything in-between option."
>
> upper: = = = = = = = = = = = = = =s= = = = = = = = = = = = = =
> tween:++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
> lower: = = = = = = =s= = = = = = = = = = = = = =s= = = = = = =
>
> The "tween" stuff could be wood, or a horizontal multiple strip
> like I have
> planned for mine. No jokes about "taint" here... OK.
>
> > I could make a long (24U) flat piece with 2 horizontal
> > rows (like 2 19As's welded together) and assume that
> > the stiffness of the panels, coupled with screwed-in-wood
> > top and bottom rails is sufficient to support 2 rows
> > without "bowing".
>
> I think that would work, but the flat bar would not be near as strong as
> two rails bolted back-to-back like I have suggested above.
>
> Stooge Larry
>
> >