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Subject: RE: Cabinet ideas sought!

From: "Dave Bradley" <daveb@...
Date: 1999-09-14

>
> From: "J. Larry Hendry" <jlarryh@...>
>

> To clarify a bit here, since John was talking about an idea that I
> originally proposed, the bus idea was not so much bussing of any signals,
> BUT rather a different format for multiples, so that they were spread
> across a row below the modules instead of all on one 1U or 2U panel.
> However, Dave, you bring up a good point to consider about noise. Do you
> think the extra cable involved in spreading the multiple out some would
> actually be a problem if shielded cable was used to make the connections.
> Inquiring minds seek you opinion.

If that's what you are talking about, it should probably be OK. You may run
into loading issues if you send a CV to a lot of places. Even though the
input impedance of the CV inputs is high, it's not infinite. For instance,
my Expressionist CV outs seem to need some buffering, because I can hear the
pitch change when I plug more VCOs in.

>
> > Should work fine. I plan on having an angled front cabinet that is 26
> units
> > wide and 10 units tall.
>
> I am curious what your decision process was that led you to
> decide 26 units
> wide. Was it the available space you have for the cabinet, number of MOTM
> modules you expect to have, or ?? Spill the beans Dave.
>

Heh heh. I chose 26 units for a few mundane practical reasons:

1. I vacated a synth cabinet that I had previously built that contained 8
9x9 panels and 1 6x18 panel. That worked out to 26 U long and slightly more
than 10 U high. It's just a temp plywood cabinet using wooden rails, that I
will replace with an angled front solid walnut version when I fill it up (6
2U wide modules to go).

2. 26 units fits on my Chroma (which is the controller) just about right.

3. It's within an inch of the actual width of the Moog cabinet. An obscure
esoteric reason to be sure.

4. I can get the basics of a 4 Voice poly system in a cabinet this size.
That leaves a top cabinet 5 U high for sequencing, formant filters (I
haven't forgotten, Paul!), lots of other filters and esoterica, and I can
add a second 5U high top cabinet if I don't run out of money first. Then
I'll have my monster IIIC looking MOTM!

> OK, if you us "L" brackets (commonly sold as "corner braces" I believe),
> bolting from the outside is stronger than screws from the inside. How
> about bolts with wood plugs? Or bolts, recessed and covered with nice
> matching wood filler for appearance?
>

Hey, do whatever works for you! Plugs would be much less visible than
filler. Obviously, the top and bottom rails are not an issue - just screw
the L directly into the cabinet. If you go 10 units or more high, the issue
is attaching the 'floating' rails at the end. Instead of an L bracket I'll
probably fabricate something that spreads out to a flat plate where it
contacts the wood so that I can secure it with 4 or 6 fat screws. Also, in a
cabinet as wide as mine I think I'll need to run a vertical brace at the
center of the cabinet, set back far enough to avoid the module circuit
boards, then run a small short horizontal brace forward to the rail at a
point where two modules would meet to avoid jacks, etc. This will brace the
very center of the panel effectively.

Dave Bradley
Principal Software Engineer
Engineering Animation, Inc.
daveb@...