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Subject: Re: [korgpolyex] Re: poly-800 mk1 seq speed slider broken

From: Michael Hawkins <korgpolyex800@...>
Date: 2010-09-20

no, I have not used those particular slider pots before. I do believe it's possible that the pin outs might be slightly different to the Korg ones (looking at the picture). But they are 30mm travel, so that's a good start.

If you have a dremel then you can drill the small holes in the right locations so that you can retrofit them in to the board.

It would not be an easy job but it could be done that way.

Mike

From: p <peteput@...>
To: korgpolyex@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Mon, September 20, 2010 1:34:14 PM
Subject: [korgpolyex] Re: poly-800 mk1 seq speed slider broken

 

Great! thanks Mike. are you certain these will work? have you used them before?
pete.

--- In korgpolyex@yahoogroups.com, Michael Hawkins <korgpolyex800@...> wrote:
>
> http://futurlec.com/PotSliding.shtml
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: p <peteput@...>
> To: korgpolyex@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Sun, September 19, 2010 12:30:10 PM
> Subject: [korgpolyex] Re: poly-800 mk1 seq speed slider broken
>
>
> Ok so the track inside the pot has small "blank spots" towards the top and
> bottom, are these tracks actually on the pcb or the pot itself? i have been
> trying to find a 100k lin pot @45mm with a 35mm throw but so far nothing doing,
> do you know where i could find one?
>
> poly love
> pete.
>
> --- In korgpolyex@yahoogroups.com, "p" <peteput@> wrote:
> >
> > Hi. So i took her apart again, resoldered all the wires from KLM597-b. and no
> >change again. took it apart once more and noticed inside the speed pot the
> >contact seemed much more dirty than the bend rate and tune pots. so after a
> >better clean with Servisol Super10 and a vigorous slider session things improved
> >dramaticallly though not 100%, now after an hour or 2 things have gone back to
> >norman slow and slower, should i take apart the pot and give it a thorough
> >clean? is this possible without removing it from the board?.
> >
> >
> > thanks so much for all your help...i'd be lost otherwise.
> >
> > pete.
> >
> > --- In korgpolyex@yahoogroups.com, "p" <peteput@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi Michael,
> > >
> > > thanks for the reply, i didnt see this until after i posted my last one...
> > > one thing im not sure about is which settings on the multimeter to use and
> >what the resistance values should be.
> > >
> > > pete.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In korgpolyex@yahoogroups.com, Michael Hawkins <korgpolyex800@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Hi Pete,
> > > >
> > > > the problem is more likely NOT the actual clock circuit itself (found on
> >the
> >
> > > > main board using half of IC36 and half of IC28 and sundry other discreet
> > > > components). For details of that circuit see section "4" on the main
> >circuit
> >
> > > > schematic in the files section.
> > > >
> > > > More likely is that there is a problem with the speed slider pot itself or
> >the
> >
> > > > the connector CN2.
> > > >
> > > > The annoying part of this is that the service manual doesn't include an
> >exact
> >
> > > > schematic diagram of the speed pot wired into the clock circuit.
> > > >
> > > > So you will need to do some tracing yourself. But I would start by checking
> >that
> >
> > > >
> > > > the slider pot runs through a range of resistance first. You will need a
> > > > multimeter for that. If you don't have a multimeter then you will need to
> >find
> >
> > > > someone that does or else go buy one.
> > > >
> > > > And then I would check to see that the three wires going from the main
> >board to
> >
> > > > the display board via CN2 are not broken. Make sure all thee connections
> >have
> >
> > > > continuity.
> > > >
> > > > Mike
> > > >
> > >
> >
>