Since you say your board has the square solder islands then I'll be
very surprised if your board actually has an R1 and D1 at all.
Are you able to find them? If you are, where are they?
Mike.
--- In
korgpolyex@yahoogroups.com, "funkymonkeypeter"
<funkymonkey3.14@...> wrote:
>
> This is my second Poly-800. The first had a problem with the
> headphone amp and DC-in jack. This one works great and I don't want
> to muck it up.
>
> If some one can answer my question I promise not to tell anyone what
> really happened on 9/11.
>
> So, to cut or not to cut?
>
>
> --- In korgpolyex@yahoogroups.com, "funkymonkeypeter"
> <funkymonkey3.14@> wrote:
> >
> > Regarding the instructions here:
> >
> > http://analog.no/mods/korg_poly-800_mk-1_battery_backup.htm
> >
> >
> > ∗ Open the Poly-800 by removing all screws at the bottom. Locate
> > the processor board. This is the large circuit board next to the
> > battery compartment.
> > ∗ In the upper left corner you'll find Resistor R1 and Diode D1.
> > Remove these. (Just cut the legs, but leave as much as possible of the
> > D1 legs, see next steps.)
> > ∗ If you have a late revision MK-1 there will be two fairly large
> > solder "islands" in the center of the board. The battery is mounted
> > here. The "island" to the front of the keyboard is ground.
> > ∗ If you have an early revision you wont find this. The battery
> > must then be connected by wires, the plus to the junction between
> > R1/D1 and the minus to the other leg of D1.
> > ∗ Any 3V lithium with solder lugs can be used as long as it is not
> > to big physically for mounting to the board. A wristwatch type (2025,
> > 2032) is fine.
> >
> >
> >
> > I have the model with the solder islands, do i need to cut the legs to
> > R1 and D1? Or can I just solder to the islands and leave everything
> > else intact?
> >
> > Thank you.
> >
>