Ok - I see how we could easily use one dpdt for the bypass switch. We were interpreting Jurgen's "schematic 6" literally. The DPDT idea looks better. If the switch hole is centered 1/2in from the edge, it would still be possible for people to use a 4 pole switch if they wanted to.
There really isn't room for two rows of switches - at least not to my eye... but I just did a trial and I think we could get all the switches in. I'll post it later.
--- In ModularSynthPanels@yahoogroups.com, Scott Juskiw <scott@...> wrote:
>
> I wasn't planning on using a 4PDT switch for bypass. My plan is to use
> a regular 2PDT switch connected to just the outputs: in the active
> position the outputs are connected to the flanger outputs, in the
> bypass position the outputs are connected to the inputs. This means
> the inputs are always connected to the flanger, even in bypass mode,
> but I see no significant disadvantage in doing so, and a significant
> advantage in that I can use a regular switch. But if you really want
> the inputs to switch as well, then I agree with you that two 2PDT
> switches is probably a better choice than a 4PDT.
>
> Panel mount trimmer? Hmm, I'm not so keen on having to dig out a
> little screwdriver every time I need to tweak the 1V/OCT setting. I'd
> probably wind up scratching the panel with the screwdriver tip. I say
> make it a pot (maybe a small knob), or leave it out entirely. Maybe
> it's not even worth adding. I'll have to try it out when I get the PCB.
>
> Can you put the switches into two rows?
>
> On 2-Oct-09, at 12:43 PM, wjhall11 wrote:
>
> > The hard constraint so far as the row of switches is concerned is
> > only that the BYPASS switch is 1/2in from the edge of the panel
> > because it's a 4PDT switch and needs the space.
> >
> > BTW, let's all remember that it only comes as a regular "bat" toggle
> > rather than the flattened ones that are MOTM standard. Will was
> > considering disassembling a MOTM standard SPDP switch to see if we
> > could transplant the toggle (assuming matching blood-types).
> >
> > At any rate - the point is that wherever that bypass switch is
> > placed (it makes sense to be either the left or right extreme), it
> > needs about 1/2 in on either side of its center. Other than that
> > there's plenty of room for another switch like the On-Off-On
> > (M201302) switch Scott's mentioning.
> >
> > OK - well - there's another possibility re the bypass switch - use
> > two DPDT 201202 switches - one for left, one for right. I'm
> > starting to like that idea better.
> >
> > But anyway - Scott - could the 1V/oct tweak function be handled by a
> > panel-mount trim pot a-la the Living VCO? (Trimmer (assumes 100K):
> > Mouser# 594-43P104 and Panel-mount: Mouser# 594-611) That would
> > save space on the panel, too.
> >
> > If BYPASS is implemented with two switches, LFO MODE with an on-off-
> > on, and a BPOL switch added, I think we could still fit it all
> > nicely if we use a panel mount trimmer for 1V/oct rather than a pot-
> > and-knob.
> >
> > Just thinking.
> >
> > Bill
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --- In ModularSynthPanels@yahoogroups.com, Scott Juskiw <scott@>
> > wrote:
> >>
> >> I don't have the PCBs yet but I'm already working out some of the
> >> details for this module. Bill and Will already have a panel proposed
> >> for this (search for "flanger" on this page):
> >>
> >> http://www.dragonflyalley.com/billAndWillMOTMSynth.htm
> >>
> >> which I like, but there are some options to consider.
> >>
> >> 1. You don't need a rotary switch for LFO MODE. You can use one of
> >> those 3 position centre-off switches. This frees up pot space for a
> >> 1V/
> >> Oct tweak pot (this is shown as an option in the schematics). JH has
> >> mentioned (on an electro-music forum) that the 1V/Oct tracking is not
> >> so good, so having a front panel pot may be a good idea.
> >> 2. Can add a jack for LFO OUT (will likely need to add a buffer as
> >> well). This would be post-LFO MODE switch, so the output will be
> >> either ramp, slewed square, or S&H depending on LFO MODE setting.
> >> 3. There is a BPOL (bounce polarity) switch on the schematic. Hmmm,
> >> first one who builds one of these will have to let us know if it's
> >> worth implementing or not.
> >>
> >> I'm still trying to figure out how best to hook up the LED. Should it
> >> indicate the LFO (i.e. post-LFO MODE switch) or the total delay time?
> >> This doesn't change the panel layout. I'll need to try out different
> >> things after I get the boards in.
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------------
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
>