I use alcohol because I'm afraid of the minerals from water being left
behind and shortening the lifespan of everything- and of water getting
trapped in places...
Speaking of rinsing, how do people feel about washing after adding
capacitors?
FYI I'll summarize all the input on techniques and put up on
http://modularland.com in a tech section soon... Modularland is my studio.
--- In
ModularSynthPanels@yahoogroups.com, Richard Brewster
<pugix@...> wrote:
>
> Tip temperature is idling temperature, the temperature of the tip in
air
> before it's applied to the work. As soon as you apply the tip, heat
> begins to transfer to the joint and the controlled station will try to
> maintain that. The idling temperature is chosen for the size of the
> work and 700F is recommended for small PC board work. You could use
750
> for jacks, etc., that have a larger area, but I normally stick with 700
> for everything. The objective is to heat the work so that the solder
> flows properly. I don't see an advantage in using a higher temp. Jack
> lugs just take a few seconds to heat, and the jack isn't damaged. Some
> hints and tips:
>
> Keep the tip tinned well. I tin the tip every time I remove it from
the
> holder.
> To tin, first clean the tip on the damp sponge, then coat with solder,
> then tap lightly on the tray to shake off excess.
> You should apply the tip to the work within a second or two after
tinning.
> The tip should touch all parts to be soldered at once.
> Apply solder to the work, not to the tip, after heating the work. Let
> the work melt the solder. It must flow freely.
> As soon as the solder flows, remove the tip. The joint should be shiny
> and have no bubbles.
> Use a jig to hold the work in place, if you can.
>
> Don't hesitate to redo a bad joint. Clean up with solder wick and
start
> over.
>
> Kester 331 is water washable, so why use alcohol? Use an old
toothbrush
> and get all the flux off. You can immerse most PC mounted parts except
> non-sealed trimpots.
>
> As for soldering from the top, I generally avoid it. It can be done
> when you want to make a repair and don't want to disassemble a
module to
> reach the back of the PC board (which is an advantage of the Oakley
> mounting system: you can always get to the back).
>
> Richard Brewster
> http://www.pugix.com
>
>
> Steve wrote:
> > I'm glad people started talking about soldering- its a much
> > under-reviewed topic.
> >
> > >From discussion with Paul Schreiber as well as my own knowledge from
> > my checkered soldering past I've come to the following technique:
> >
> > PCBs: Kester 331 Organic- and washing with Techspray pure Isopropol
> > Alcohol
> >
> > Pots and jacks: Kester 245 No Clean - no cleaning
> >
> > Soldering Station: Weller WES-51 iron with an ETS 1" conical tip
> >
> > Temp: 700F
> >
> > Was it suit and Tie Guy that said he works at 750F?
> >
> > Anyone else want to suggest optimal technique?
> >
> > Any opinions on soldering from the TOP of the dual sided PCB vs
bottom?
> >
> > Dwell time?
> >
> >
>