I work with my iron hot, above 700. I find fast and
precise is best, and I rotate component legs. Not only
does this allow for cooling time, it also allows for
me to flip the board and align any crooked parts
before soldering the last leg. This works really well
with Box caps and power connectors for example.
No clean flows much better for me with a hotter iron.
But, you have to be careful not to work with too hot
an iron. You can literally boil the solder which will
leave bubbles in your joint and a less secure
connection. The finish of the solder will not look
like chrome with these types of problems. It can
almost look tarnished or milky. Anyone else have this
problem?
Thomas
--- Steve <
steve@...> wrote:
> I'm glad people started talking about soldering- its
> a much
> under-reviewed topic.
>
> From discussion with Paul Schreiber as well as my
> own knowledge from
> my checkered soldering past I've come to the
> following technique:
>
> PCBs: Kester 331 Organic- and washing with Techspray
> pure Isopropol
> Alcohol
>
> Pots and jacks: Kester 245 No Clean - no cleaning
>
> Soldering Station: Weller WES-51 iron with an ETS 1"
> conical tip
>
> Temp: 700F
>
> Was it suit and Tie Guy that said he works at 750F?
>
> Anyone else want to suggest optimal technique?
>
> Any opinions on soldering from the TOP of the dual
> sided PCB vs bottom?
>
> Dwell time?
>
>
>
Thomas White
Natural Rhythm
www.naturalrhythmmusic.com