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>
> i bored the LED hole out today with a Unibit on a handdrill and it
> went smooth as anything.
>
> has anyone completed their tau pipe modules yet?
> im waiting for a 100k log pot to arrive.
> and i have yet to do the front panel wiring.
>
>
>
>
>
> --- In ModularSynthPanels@yahoogroups.com, "adaaxs" <wonggster@> wrote:
>
> > I have a Sears hand drill that is a two speed, geared job, amazing
> bit of analog
> > toolmaking. It is a very fine and effective tool, better than many
> of the electrics I have
> > had.
> >
> > gw
> > >
> > > I do have an actual hand drill that belonged to my father. It has
> > > wooden handles and a crank on the side like an eggbeater. I use to
> > > drill PCB's, as it can't accidently skip and destroy traces.
> > >
> > > >>The paint won't chip, either. I make those holes smaller because
> > > >>individual users can always drill them bigger if they need to, but
> > > >>we can't drill them smaller : )
> > >
> > > Indeed :)
> > >
> > > >>Cool. I've never drilled through metal this thick before. Is it an
> > > >>easy process? Do I need to get any exotic tools to do this (ie can
> > > >>I use a hand drill or do I need a press)? What steps are you going
> > > >>to take to minimize the amount of paint chipping?
> > >
> > > You want a variable-spped power drill with a large-enough chuck to
> > > fit the bits you are using. When I had to drill a bunch of panels,
> > > including some tricky stuff like the LED holes for a MiniWave, I
> > > borrowed this massive professional drill press from my next door
> > > neighbor. Which was much better than using a hand-held power drill,
> > > but not necessary if you only have to drill a few holes.
> > >
> > > Secure it from moving (you can use the mounting holes in the corners
> > > of the panel to screw it to a board), drill from front of the panel
> > > so that any damage to the paint is to the back side, and use a
> > > lubricant such as cutting and tapping spray.
> > >
> > > http://www.hotrodmotm.com/drill_howto.htm
> > >
> >
>