--- In
Mellotronists@yahoogroups.com, "Berington Van Campen"
<vcmusicorp1@...> wrote:
>
> Hey everyone! Glad to be the newest member of this "elite"
> community! Have owned M-400 #1485 since 1977, & it's figured
> prominently in my music (at the time esp., very Yes- & Genesis-
> influenced, as well as Beatles, Crimson and others...). Suffice it
to
> say, since '77 it's been a huge boon to my music career. I should
> add, I made the SMS3 conversion, etc, and being a VERY clean
machine,
> it's operated beautifully with only routine maintenance. Learned
to
> clean motor brushes, etc.
> Sadly, in my mainstay scoring work, the advent of MIDI
equipment,
> sequencing & mixing direct to digital recorders, bypassing tape
> altogether, made using the Mellotron a rarity. Periodically I'd
fire
> it up just to make sure it stayed lubricated, etc, and it always
> delivered the thrill of playing what's a truly wondrous instrument
> even to this day.
> More recently, getting back into live performance as a
guitarist,
> I've wanted to get that M-puppy back into circulation, and found
the
> motor VERY sluggish. Soon stalled altogether, and while trying to
> encourage the capstan to turn, I began smelling an electrical
> burning, and of course, killed the power immediately. Examining
the
> motor, I found a couple of resistors (I believe
they're pretty
> fried!) attached to it that had burned. I have the original
owner's
> manual w schematics, the old CMC-10 board & other docs, but can't
> seem to locate `em at the moment. Do any of you have such
experience
> with your instruments, and/or have any ideas how to proceed to un-
> stick the motor, replace the burnt parts, and restore my once-
happy
> baby to its previous state? Or is there anyone in the L.A. area I
> might talk with? I'd appreciate any suggestions! Thanks muchly in
> advance! ~B.
> P.S. A photo of #1485 appears on my MySpace site under "View
my
> pics" at www.myspace.com/berington.
>
Hello B: Guess to start with obvious, loosen belt from motor and
see if motor turns freely. If not check for any obstructions, does
tach wheel clear head? Are motor bearings dry? Next, look at
armature and commutator for any burned windings, really dark brown,
The next step would be to remove armature and with ohm meter check
for shorts in windings and on commutator. If resistors at motor are
burned, they can easily be replaced but were not the cause of
malfunction but the result. Could be capacitor gone bad, when you
find your schematics you will be able to determine value. Last to
check is SMS3 card, hopefully you have checked edge connectors on
card for snug fit and proper insertion. These are basics, so if and
when you find problems, you can look for specific areas. Remember
if voltage to motor decreases, current increases, and things will
quickly fry. Let us know what you find, and BE CAREFUL. Doug