--- Jerry Korb <
jkorb@...> wrote:
>
>
> Ken Leonard wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > Although rare, it's not unusual to have to replace
> bearings.
> >
> > MRC 104KSZZ
> > NSK 6004VVC3
> >
> > The Prof showed me the trick of sticking your ear
> at the other end of
> > a metal bar or dowel that's against the bearing
> block and then
> > turning the capstan by hand. Crunchy sound =
> bad---replace the bearings.
> >
> > I've thrown oil at mine from time to time. I
> don't know how much
> > actually gets in there---I need to get me one of
> those needle oiling
> > things for the next time.
> >
>
>
>
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
>
> Greetings KL and everyone, If bearings make a
> regular sounding
> "clackety-clack" whilst rotating, similar to cadence
> of train wheels,
> chances are the bearings are OK, but a bit dry. Esp.
> true on the older
> models (MK-II,SFX/M300) . But grinding/cruching,
> nada ! Gotta repl. 'em .
>
> Some "sealed" bearings aren't as sealed as others.
> Therefore, the
> round felt washers adjacent to pillow blocks, to
> catch any migrating
> lubricant. In those instances, a precision
> needle-oiler (from Rat-Shack),
> will do the trick. Apply a small drop on what
> appears to be inner race cover,
> NOT the capstan.
>
> The metal rod trick is decades-old way that car
> mechanics used to
> listen for faulty bearings or such in car engines.
> Kinda low-tech
> stethoscope. Buy hey, seems to work !
>
>
>
>
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> >
> > Regarding motor oiling...At the Philly Symposium
> >
>
(
http://www.kleonard.com/mellotron/philly0501/working.htm) > we went
> > over this and observed a few motors being
> cleaned/oiled. In addition
> > to cleaning out the brushes, I do recall having to
> put a few drops of
> > oil at either end of the shaft where it runs
> through the motor. I've
> > done this on #805 when I had the motor out and on
> "Mark" the Mark V
> >
>
(
http://www.kleonard.com/mellotron/mpb050604/index.htm).
> However I'm
> > not sure how effective this is. I guess the idea
> is that some of the
> > oil works its way in there, and that's that.
> Again, having one of
> > those needly oilers might be a good idea.
> >
> > Oh, I used Hammond oil. I figure if it's good
> enough for one of those...:-)
> >
> > I'm sure the Prof or one of the other tech guys
> can give us some more
> > detail (or un-do the lies I'm spreading :-) ) if
> needed.
> >
> > ...kl... M400 #805 - old motor , M400
> #1037 - new motor
>
>
>
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> The orig. motors have lubed bushings which get
> dirty/dry from age
> and/or neglect. Once cleaned, armatures should be
> moving freely.
> Needle-oiler as Ken indicated is very useful.
>
> Sewing-machine or 3-in-1 (has nice smell too!) are
> excellent too.
>
> I've endurance tested every motor here at the
> M-Ranch after
> Prev. Maint. by running top-speed a minimum of 24
> hrs. Checking
> for drift in SMS electronics, etc. See photo of
> one example.
>
> ....How does that old saying go ?......" A squeaky
> wheel ...... ? "
>
> Cheers, -- JK-- (a bit squeaky, due to spring cold)
>
Thanks, Jerry-
Help abounds on this forum. I got the motor
cleaned, oiled (1/2 drop on each end) and back in
position. New rubber bushings, too. Had to flatten
the large motor mounting plate a bit, but the geometry
is now correct (the belt tension was a bit much, ya
think?). Belt now rides centered and true. I think
the previous owner was tightening the belt to
compensate for worn bearings, screwing up the
motor/belt geometry in the process. I did add a
little oil to the capstan bearings, but the difference
was minor. Bearings will be next, for sure.
Happy 'tronning
-Bruce Daily
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