I agree - post the pixs please! He didn't say how the board came out,
what kind of design rules (trace width, etc), cleaning ... It would
be also good to know the cost of the treatment - great if the PCB +
sensitizer + developer is less than presensitized boards.
Robert, have you mod'd the GBC for thicker material? The pulsar
directions are ok (just ok) for the 200. I would not force the
laminator too hard, the plastic gears on the 200 do not look like they
can handle much stress.
I believe that .032 PCB material goes through and unmod'd 200 just
fine. I've fed it myself and there was aposting about 6-9 months ago
on that topic as well. I may have some .032 -- need to check my stock.
Phil
--- In
Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Robert Hedan <robert.hedan@v...>
wrote:
> Can you posts pics please? I'm really curious as to how it came
out. I'm
> trying out the Pulsar technique right now and I like it. I had some
> messing-up around the edge 'cause my PCB was VERY corroded; I
cleaned it for
> as long as my arms could handle. But I have another brand of PCB
and it is
> obvious that the first one was VERY old.
>
> I'm also switching to 1/32" thick PCB. The GBC H300 laminator does NOT
> digest 1/16" boards very well; it burped and farted the whole time,
having
> to force-feed it by hand with another blank board.
>
> Robert
> :)
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:
Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com] De
> la part de hjf2k2
> Envoyé : juillet 23 2005 13:19
> À : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : [Homebrew_PCBs] Experimental method
>
>
> Hi all, i've been testing a way to make photo etching cheap'n easy.
I went
> to a Screen-print shop and bought photosensitive emulsion, the cheapest
> type. I mixed the components and painted the emulsion on the copper.
Then I
> let it dry overnight in a (pitch) dark place. On a transparency I
printed
> the negative of my circuit and placed the transparency, toner side
to the
> emulsion and placed it under a fluorescent lamp for 7 minutes or so. I
> removed the board and nothing seemed to change, until I ran some
water over
> the board, and with a hair brush for babies (the softer-than-hair
type) i
> helped the water. The exposed areas dried up but the rest washed
with water.
> GREAT precision, SMD quality. Then I let the board again now in the
sun to
> totally burn the emulsion and it was ready for etching, warm (hot)
ferric
> chloride.
>
> Hope that helps.
> Some day I'll try the AZO-based emulsion, but that one needs UV curing.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and
Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
>
> If Files or Photos are running short of space, post them here:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs_Archives/
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