On Sun, 03 Jul 2005 15:41:50 +0200, bob_ledoux <
bobledoux@...>
wrote:
> Stefan,
> I've read through all 9000+ postings on this board. I very much
> appreciate the contributions you, and others, have made to the hobby
> technology. My comments are not intended as a criticism.
I know there are many posts, and i really don't think the archives are
practical to start for a beginner.
Better read the tutorials in the links section, there you get a condensed
howto from one person, but several versions from different persons. Then
discuss your options on the list.
Some have suggested a kind of knoweledge base /wiki for the list, i don't
think it would work 'cause there are so many different opinions. I think
the best is if everyone that wants writes a few personal pages about his
findings in PCB making and puts a link in the links section. I may do so
one day.
> Some readers must have some elegant circuit board facilities befitting
> a small production facility. That is fine.
> But I still had to do hours of reading and testing to get a simple PCB
> process for my occasional use. The key for me was to avoid new
> hardware on my electronics bench. I've made space for a laminator, as
> a concession to smd parts, but I didn't want to spend time and make
> space creating an etching system with tanks and other objects de art.
> My workbench is in the house. I don't want ferric chloride tanks in
> the home. Its nice taking the dirty job outside.
> So the Green Film, at $8 for 15 feet, has allowed me a hardware-free
> etching approach. No mess, no fuss.
> The other outside job is drilling pcb holes. As much as I like
> carbide drill bits, they are fragile and require precise spindle
> mechanisms operating at high speeds. My solution is low tech. I use
> a $39 Harbor Freight drill press driving 1/32 (.032) steel drill bits
> that I buy by the dozen from Enco or MSC for 21 cents each.
> They don't last long, but I can by thousands for the cost of creating
> a precise drilling system. If you want to build something precise
> consider this. He has two versions.
> http://www.jerry-howell.com/MiniDrillPress.html
I did the very same thing you do now for several years, and i don't say it
isn't a possibility.
But if someone comes and for example says he has bad tranfer results using
a clothes iron, what should i do? Say nothing when i know perfectly well
that a laminator/fuser will solve the problem, just because the iron means
less hardware? If some option is not suitable for you 'cause of certain
requirements, point that out and everyone will understand.
Also, i do understand beginners come here to learn the basics, and they
are always provided with plenty of suggestions, but this is as much a
place for advanced discussion as it is for beginners. If you suggest tray
etching with a brush and green film - that's fine with me, i won't go and
do it however, just as you won't go and build my CuCl tank any time soon.
I really don't see a problem with that.
I can only suggest what i think is best, not what some people want to
hear, sorry 'bout that.
Now enough of that nonsense and back to making PCBs.
For drilling, someone here suggested a pivoting drill press to me, i made
one and it works really well.
Basically you mount your drill on a pivoting arm, about 30 to 50 cm long,
and all mechanics that are needed are the bearings at the end (I used two
thrust bearings). You should find the details in the archives. Very cheap
and precise.
I used HSS drills for years too, but in FR4 they dull really quick and the
holes are much better with carbide (cleaner cut and less burr).
ST