In message <op.staas3yqmg0lsf@tu-x2pj5qeyp2u4>
"Stefan Trethan" <
stefan_trethan@...> wrote:
> Also, i think for PCBs it would be acceptable to bridge the thermofuse.
Only if you don't mind causing a fire if/when the temperature controller jams
on :)
> Really? Then i must have done something wrong - work on the front always
> required me to take of about 15 screws (the whole front "panel" thing),
> even for getting out the DC PSU. I thought that is the more nasty section
> of the printer. Maybe i missed a easy way to do it.
ISTR you only need to open the flip-out section, then remove the four screws
that hold the fuser in place. I'm not 100% sure about that though - I'd need
to check the service manual.
Getting the top cover off is difficult, but it's worth it for the big, meaty
stepper motor. Shame it's got such an odd shaft shape though - sort of a
spiral. Never seen anything like it.
> But still - how many of todays printers still work if you remove ALL
> plastic and a good deal of steel? If you take off a side-panel on a new
> printer the unit usually falls apart into a thousand pieces.
:)
> Maybe you can remove some guard? why is it feeding at such an odd angle.
> (it sounds almost as if it is a sick animal..... ;-)
Dunno.. Might have something to do with trying to feed it 1.6mm PCB laminate.
Or the fact that the rollers are slightly offset from each other - the red
rubber roller is slightly further back inside the casing.
> Chicken grill motor ;-)
If I can find one.
Later.
--
Phil. | Acorn Risc PC600 Mk3, SA202, 64MB, 6GB,
philpem@... | ViewFinder, 10BaseT Ethernet, 2-slice,
http://www.philpem.me.uk/ | 48xCD, ARCINv6c IDE, SCSI
... Some people are, through no fault of their own, sane.