Hi Bob,
You did good!
Just make sure that your pads are big enough to leave
enough materials after drilling. I ususally make
slightly oversize and stretched octagon pads to
compensate. I even increase the widths of the traces.
Overall its more forgiving and less copper to remove.
Just go sloawly on your first until you feel
comfortable with the techniques.
Myc
--- KE5CTY Bob <
rtnmi@...> wrote:
> I have blank pcbs, board drill bits and parts
> ordered and on the way,
> before they arrive I would like to check the
> following:
>
> Let me see if I have this right:
>
> Phase One:
> 1) I layout the board in the software
> FREEPCB found at FREEPCB.COM
> 2) I print what I just laid out onto
> my HP DeskJet 712c printer
> 2a) I make a copy with
> my Panasonic KX-FM106
> "Copier/Fax" machine.
> 3) I turn the copied paper upside down on the blank
> copper
> 4) I apply my preheated iron to the backside of the
> paper
> (the paper should stick well or apply more heat)
> 5) I remove the paper in hot water or something
>
> Phase Two:
> 6) Now I use the etchant process and remove
> the still visible copper from the board
> 7) Now I remove the ink from the remaining copper
> 8) Now I drill holes in the board for the components
>
> Phase Three:
> 9) Insert components and build board.
> ----------------------------
> ----------------------------
>
> Well how'd I do? Hope I got it all straight :0)
>
> 7&3 fer nw,
> KE5CTY (old calls WB5ZQU - WY5L)
> http://www.qsl.net/ke5cty/
> Code may be dying but the pioneering spirit that put
> the code there in
> the first place is still going strong.
>
>
>
>
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