--- In
Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "KE5CTY Bob" <rtnmi@s...> wrote:
> Hi Fellows:
>
> Found you guys through a query on another group (QRP-L) that I am a
> member of.
Welcome to the list!
> Now after reading and looking at most of the files after joining and
> looking at the graphics of the CAD/CAM systems in the file and link area
> I decided on using "Express PCB" and have installed it on my system,
> probably will get into "Eagle" once I get the hang of the board building
> procedures themselves.
Can you print a board from Express PCB? I thought they had it rigged
so you could only print a proof or something.
> The question now lies in which method should I use -
> The print inkjet and then copier method or the direct laser printer
> method?
Depends on your laser printer, that seems like the least convoluted
method. I think 600dpi is regarded as the lower limit of laser printer
resolution for toner transfer. And of course the toner in your laser
printer must transfer to the PCB effectively. If not, then you can try
the inkjet print and copier.
If you use the inkjet printer and copier, use good paper in the
inkjet. Using plain or "general purpose inkjet" paper may result in
distorted small traces, as the ink tends to follow the fibers. Photo
or High Resolution paper has a clay coating that has a uniform
surface. Higher contrast and less bleeding, and less random bleeding
as there are no paper fibers exposed for the ink to bleed along.
> The "oven method" or the "iron on method"?
You may be confusing the oven method of -soldering- with using an iron
for Toner Transfer.
Or do you mean the method someone mentioned of clamping the blank PCB
and print between metal plates and placing it in your oven? That
should be better than using an iron, as the iron has holes, is not
flat, and is hard to push with uniform pressure. I'd think a laminator
would be easier but it does require some modifications unless you only
use the really thin PCBs.
Steve Greenfield