Well, you can try.
I still think direct printing (drum to copper) is a no-go for many reasons.
one beeing the drum will be damaged by the board edges, also the corona
thing will not work properly.
The silicone roller thing Denny is testing works so far, but for me it
seems to much work to build compared with the little more effort of
silicone paper.
ST
On Wed, 25 May 2005 21:29:41 +0200, Alan King <alan@...> wrote:
>
> Well I think that anything that worked well direct to board would be
> worth it
> in short order, the long term ease would beat out a little work to make
> it.
> Less complex would still be better of course..
> I have the 6L service manual from the net now, it has excellent general
> reference ideas besides just the specifics for the printer. The paper
> path is
> reasonably straight once you ignore the vertical in and out paper
> parts. They
> canted the fuser slightly, but a little work and it could be
> straightened out.
> Slots and springs instead of just screw holes to take the thickness of a
> board
> would be the only other mods needed from the look of it, besides the
> entry and
> exit of course. With the service manual for disassembly and 4 spare
> mechanics,
> it'll get tried soon. One or two already have cracked up cases too, so
> not even
> a second thought to do major mods.
> And the corona wire is in the cartridge, so above the paper not
> below. Even
> with mobile electrons on the face of the board going to the ends instead
> of just
> across the thickness, it's still attracting the opposite charge near to
> the
> corona wire and drum, just like for paper. So near the wire is the
> correct
> charge for printing, unlike what happens with a below the paper corona
> wire with
> a conductive surface to print on. This may explain why I got imaged
> prints even
> with larger sections of taped on aluminum foil while many printers
> don't, they
> just flaked off easily from the smooth foil and poorer fusing to a heat
> conductor. The mechanical mods and making the fuser a bit hotter or
> preheating
> the board a bit may be all that is needed for direct printing with these
> printers. I'll be checking it out very soon since it might be that
> simple.
> Alan