Stefan Trethan wrote:
>
> Denny mentioned using a silicone roller under the drum to take the toner,
> and trasnfer it to a heated board.
> Me personally, i think it is too complicated a mod to be worth the
> time-savings, but if you want to try...
>
>
> ST
>
Well I think that anything that worked well direct to board would be worth it
in short order, the long term ease would beat out a little work to make it.
Less complex would still be better of course..
I have the 6L service manual from the net now, it has excellent general
reference ideas besides just the specifics for the printer. The paper path is
reasonably straight once you ignore the vertical in and out paper parts. They
canted the fuser slightly, but a little work and it could be straightened out.
Slots and springs instead of just screw holes to take the thickness of a board
would be the only other mods needed from the look of it, besides the entry and
exit of course. With the service manual for disassembly and 4 spare mechanics,
it'll get tried soon. One or two already have cracked up cases too, so not even
a second thought to do major mods.
And the corona wire is in the cartridge, so above the paper not below. Even
with mobile electrons on the face of the board going to the ends instead of just
across the thickness, it's still attracting the opposite charge near to the
corona wire and drum, just like for paper. So near the wire is the correct
charge for printing, unlike what happens with a below the paper corona wire with
a conductive surface to print on. This may explain why I got imaged prints even
with larger sections of taped on aluminum foil while many printers don't, they
just flaked off easily from the smooth foil and poorer fusing to a heat
conductor. The mechanical mods and making the fuser a bit hotter or preheating
the board a bit may be all that is needed for direct printing with these
printers. I'll be checking it out very soon since it might be that simple.
Alan