Archive of the former Yahoo!Groups mailing list: Homebrew PCBs

Hi,

first, the sanding did no good it impedes transfer.

I did however try more today.
It seems high temperature silicone produces good results, every time.

my observation is that stadard silicone tends to make a sizzling sound and
excretes some (BAD) fumes and liquid stuff (silicone oil, molten silicone,
who knows) that makes a transfer impossible. The high temp variety does
not do that.

what i tried next is to let the fuser cool off, and just when starting a
long PCB plug it in again. so i get a temperature gradient over the whole
length of the PCB. It seems at a cooler temperature the trasfer works,
although i did only this one quick experiment and am not sure.

Assuming the same thing of "melting" happens inside the printer fuser it
would explain why the fuser seems to destroy the printout (And why it
doesn't do that with high-temp silicone).

Now that high-temp silicone works is very good news indeed. However, with
8eur/310ml it is much more expensive than normal silicone (2-3eur).
Reducing the temperature in both printer fuser and laminating fuser seems
not a far-fetched option, as i know that this particular printer has a
very high fuser temperature problem anyway. My calculations show that
310ml would last well over 200 pages tho, so still cheaper than the photo
paper i buy.

I did make some photos of how i coat the paper, and will publish them at
some point...

ST