After opening a tube of silicone for its first use, try storing the
remainder of the tube in the refrigerator. I find it keeps for months.
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "retired0" <retired0@...>
To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, April 18, 2005 6:27 AM
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: no fuser (was: How to ajust toner darkness in
HP LaserJet 4m plus printer?)
>
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Stefan Trethan"
> <stefan_trethan@g...> wrote:
>> On Sun, 17 Apr 2005 07:38:27 -0000, retired0 <retired0@y...> wrote:
>>
>> >
>> > Tell us more about the neutral-curing silicone. Brand, cost?
>> > mike
>>
>>
>> Any brand is very similar i assume. It is just normal silicone chaulk,
>> which comes in a big "syringe". You should have that tool which
> presses
>> the plunger, but i guess for paper coating you could do without.
>> I only tried with acid curing, and it worked great, but someone
> mentioned
>> the acid that is produced during curing might harm the printer. So i
>> bought neutral curing at the DIY store a few days ago, chose grey
> variey
>> so it is well visible on paper and also the black toner on it is well
>> visible. It costs about 5eur, a bit more than acid curing one at
> ~3eur.
>> 310ml that is i think, you can coat a huge amount of paper with that.
>>
>> The whole point is this silicone has a slightly tacky surface (you
> can't
>> slide anything over it), as opposed to papers for baking or label
> backing
>> which have a very slick surface. This allows the toner to stay in
> place,
>> but allows it to come off easily too.
>>
>> ST
>
> Ok, but I was asking the brand name and part number of the
> neutral-curing sealant.
> In the US, I've searched high and low. The only stuff I've found
> has been Dow Corning 3145rtv. Well, there's other stuff, but it isn't
> any cheaper. I've personally verified that you can put this stuff
> directly onto electronic components without harming them. Last I
> checked, it was over
> $20 for a 3oz. tube. That's horrible even if you plan to use the
> whole tube. But it starts hardening in the tube after you open it and
> I find
> I waste 95% of the tube.
>
> There was some stuff at the hardware store that claimed to be
> non-corrosive, but after researching it, I convinced myself that
> it still wasn't safe for electronic stuff. I'd be glad to hear
> otherwise.
>
> mike
>
>
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