On Fri, 11 Feb 2005 20:32:39 -0000, rwferr1 <
ferrron@...> wrote:
>
> Hi, I've been a member awhile but haven't posted before. I've
> reviewed the previous posts on flex circuits and have a few questions.
> Can surface mount components be soldered (by hand) without destroying
> the components or the laminate? Or would it be better to use a
> conductive epoxy? Is there some other bonding method that could be
> done at home?
> I don't need to flex the circuit, am interested in its thinness to fit
> inside a scale model railroad signal head with tight clearances. Feed
> wires running up a 1/16" mast need to be attached to the laminate as
> well as the LEDs.
> The assembly has to fit inside a space .090" wide x .400" high x .058"
> deep.
> The "board" would have 4 traces on it, one to each of 3 LEDs plus a
> common ground. I'm sure I'll have to develop a means of handling
> these tiny parts, one sneeze and its start over. I'd expect I'd need
> to assemble the components and cut the "board" away from a larger
> sheet afterward.
> I'd really appreciate any help you can provide on this project.
> Thank you,
> Ron Ferrel
Maybe you get away by peeling a single glass layer with copper from
standard board, it works quite well. I think the one i tried with is no
real FR4 but some cheaper stuff.
It can be handled like normal PCB and is very thin.
I have never tried, but i'd assume you can hand-solder flex boards ok.
If you want i fetch some scrap flex-stuff from the bin and
desolder/resolder component to see how it goes.
Also consider building the circuit without any board and bonding it solid
with epoxy or ca. after soldering. with very few components this works
quite well.
It might even be possible to glue it to the case of the signal itself.
ST