Hi just wanted to put in my 2 cents worth on this subject.
I use a version of CUCL that is cheap and easy to get the stuff for. I
use regular 3% Peroxide available at any drug store. Cheap in larger
sizes ( I actually get it at Costco, 1.78 for 2 qts. ) I then use pool
acid (muratic acid, available at pool supplies and most grocery
stores) about 3-4 bucks a gallon. Then get a clear plastic box made
from the soft milky colored polyrthelene usually sold as shoe boxes.
Now pour 2/3 cup of peroxide in container. I recommend doing this
outside as a few fumes may be given off when mixing in the acid. After
the peroxide is in add 1/3 cup pool acid. Be carefull pouring this
into the peroxide. It may fume slightly. I then take it into the
kitchen sink. It is clear at this time. Place the board into the
solution. At first it seems nothing is happening. In less than a
minute the solution starts turning a very pretty bright green thas is
still transparent. In about 3-5 minutes the board is completely
etched. I can do at least a 6x6 board is just one cup total etchant
doublesided. Rinse the board good. The downside is the solution will
go bad within a couple of hours. You can regen with concentrated
peroxide (tried it didn't like it) so I just make fresh each time.
When you get done pour it down the drain with running water. This is
appropriate for occasional use. If I was doing large quanities I would
go full blown CUCL. As far as temps go I made it one time with my room
temp peroxide and some 26 degree pool acid (it was cold out) and it
worked just as well. Use plastic tongs for the board. And last but not
least I just rock the container back and forth for the etching time.
With the small amount of etchant you are unlikely to slop any out. BTW
I have a 15/16 full gallon of new FECL sitting on the shelf gathering
dust. I'll never use it, this is just to easy.
--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Phil" <phil1960us@y...> wrote:
>
> People can do what ever they feel comfortable doing but CuCl can be
> touchy stuff. I think people starting out should know this. I recall
> a lot of people having trouble with slow etching and such. Conc
> H2O2 isn't super common (and definitely NOT like pouring orange juice
> - I saw a guy get some on his skin, nasty burn). Pouring/diluting
> acid needs to be done with care - more so than AP which is pretty
> benign. CuCl is a bunch of extra steps and precautions that aren't
> necessary. I use CuCl - I'm not saying its bad.
>
> In my opinion, AP is really the way to go for a first-timer. It
> doesn't burn on contact and doesn't stain like FeCl. Very easy to use
> and clear so you can see the board. I think it really helps the
> novice to be able to see the progress of the etch with out lifting the
> board out. But, hey, the beauty of information is that you can do
> with it what you please!
>
> Phil
>