Archive of the former Yahoo!Groups mailing list: Homebrew PCBs

previous by date index next by date
previous in topic topic list next in topic

Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Home PCB kit

From: "Stefan Trethan" <stefan_trethan@...>
Date: 2005-02-03

On Thu, 03 Feb 2005 05:58:34 -0000, Phil <phil1960us@...> wrote:

>
> I think CuCl for a novice is too much. It requires more fussing,
> effort and chemistry skill to get going. Its not impossible but AP or
> FeCl are much easier to start with. Given all the other things they
> are learning, anything that makes the first board simpler to produce
> is a good thing.
> I've used all three and recommend AP for the beginner as it is
> non-staining and you can see the progress of the board. Both CuCl and
> FeCl are pretty opaque and cause stains.
> After the novice has gotten TT or photomask techniques figured out,
> they should then consider CuCl. Given that it has a positive
> implication for the environment, its worth moving to.
> Phil

Well, i do assume everyone who should be trusted with any chemical can
dilute one with water and add a second one. The CuCl recepies in the links
section are a bit complicated at times, because they use some form of
copper to get started, while it isn't required to do that if you use the
copper from your boards and H2O2, over a longer period of time.

AP must be mixed with water, right? that involves the same steps as
diluting HCl. I agree adding H2O2 adds a certain amount of complexity, but
it doesn't seem that much more complicated than pouring a glass of orange
juice.

The whole analysis stuff is nice, but you don't really need it, i used
CuCl for years without, just going by color and etching speed. Of course,
knowing the molarity takes away someting you need to guess otherwise, so
i'd recommend it for beginners, but it only involves using 2 eyedroppers.

Sure AP can be used, no problems there, but i don't see much advantage.

ST