I was able to solder those headers by placing the
plastic as far aboce the pcb as possile as i could so
i couls still solder the bottem. The fact that im
using thin pcb makes it a little easier... The IC
socket, I stupidly soldered it before I started this
thread. (Actualy its the reason for it.) I just melted
into it ti solder the pins to the traces. It workes,
but dont look so pretty. Mabey ill touch it up with
some epoxy to make it look a little better.
I found a good way to do the vias, I bend some thin
copper wire into a "cotter pin" shape. Insert into the
via all the way,and spread like you would a cotter
pin. It stays in place, and is easy to solder on the
top and bottem., then just clip the excess wire off.
This works best if there is a copper ring around the
whole via. I tend to tare the via pad off when
drilling the hole and just have track going to a hole.
It still works but may take an extra second.
--Tom
--- Radra <
infositeus@...> wrote:
>
>
>
> Strip-X will remove the enamel/varnish but it is
> slow and messy to
> use. For thin wire, I simply quickly pass it thru a
> flame and then
> wipe off the charred enamel/varnish.
>
> Lyman
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Stephen
> Bartlett
> <tower.op@v...> wrote:
> > Look for a source of magnet wire (for winding
> coils, transformers,
> and
> > motors). These come in sizes from quite heavy
> down to too thin to
> be
> > manually used; some have melting tyoe insulation
> that can be
> soldered
> > without mechanical stripping.
> >
> > If you can't find that, General Cement used to
> make a liquid called
> > "Strip-X," sold in 1 ounce botttles by electronic
> suppliers, that
> > removed baked varnishes and enamels.
> >
> > Steve Bartlett
> >
>
>
>
>
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