In a message dated 1/13/2005 8:04:44 A.M. Central Standard Time,
naveedguy2@... writes:
Can anyone please tell me about different types of solder bits based on the
material used? Which one is the best one? How can I clean dirty bits? I am a
newbie, please help me.<<
Forty or more years back, "all" soldering-iron tips were made of copper.
This conducted heat very well and assuming you didn't try to solder
black-painted cast-iron, it'd remain "tinned" easily. However, at "soldering heat",
copper DISSOLVES in liquid solder, so the tip would develop a nasty shape quite
quickly, requiring filing, which require re-tinning, which was difficult for
cerebrally challenged impatient folks.
THEN someone discovered IRON did not dissolve nearly as rapidly (if at all)
in hot solder, but iron is a poor conductor of heat. SO, some
chemical/metallurgical wizards came up with the obvious idea to IRON-PLATE copper tips.
The 0.1 mm thick iron was too thin to be a detriment to the heating from the
copper inside, yet enough to preclude dissolving the copper tip (bit). Sadly,
those cerebrally challenged folks would FILE these tips if the tinning got
spoiled (it is MUCH more difficult to re-tin iron than copper), and the tip
would immediately begin to dissolve UNDER whatever was left of the iron, and,
well, you had "tooth decay" in a bad way.
A NEW iron tip is pre-tinned. Proper (aka SENSIBLE) handling will keep it
tinned. That kind of tip will last a very long time. Don't MASH it onto
connections. Don't use ANY abrasives on it. Keep it clean by "shaking" the
solder off it every couple of connections, apply some fresh solder, and if REALLY
nasty, swipe it on a slit-sponge slightly moistened, the kinda thing MADE
for this purpose. A scrap of terry-cloth with a couple ml. water can do nearly
as well. I find I can keep a tip bright and fresh simply by applying some
fresh rosin-flux solder and "tap the iron body" against the rim of a
porcelain or glass saucer, tray, old caster, etc, to "shake off" the excess solder.
NEVER try to "carry" solder on the tip to the joint! ALWAYS apply the
solder-wire so that its end touches the soldering iron's tip AND the joint at the
same time. Then, shake-off the excess drop or two clinging on the iron. If
you DON'T, and let it "collect", it will "turn nasty" and subsequent soldering
joints will look like they were done in East Europe by patients.
Takes a day or so of practice. Works better if some OLD guy who has BEEN
there, DONE that, stands over you with a small bat, making threats if you don't
do it WELL, and quickly! Oh, and he must also explain what you need to
change, etc.
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