Thanks for the replies, the reason I ask is the other day I was doing a PCB and after the soak in the water I noticed that the Toner was still Powdery looking and the slightest rub with the finger resulted in exposing the Copper the Toner was not Cooked enough..... not enough Iron Time or its to Cold perhaps .
I have also been thinking about making 1/2" Alloy Top & Bottom Plates that are Indexed to heat up instead of using the Iron for a double sided Job, and using some small Over centre Clamps to hold the assy together.
Thomas
----- Original Message -----
From: James Newton
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, November 20, 2004 7:10 AM
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: TONER MELTING POINT ??
--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "gettingalongwouldbenice"
<gettingalongwouldbenice@y...> wrote:
> According to the manual for the HP4L, the fuser is 180C.
> But the specs on the media call out 200C for 0.1 seconds.
>
> This is a relatively short time relative to the 2-3 minutes
> recommended for the iron method.
> And the thermal mass is approximately zero compared to the board.
I always pre-heat the PCB, face down, on a hot plate at 350F (~180C)
before doing the transfer and I've found I don't really need a hot
iron if I get the paper on the PCB fast enough after pulling it out
of the hot plate. Also, the transfer is just about instant.
Today, I tried one right in the hot plate, with the PCB face up, and
managed to burn myself and char the back side of the PCB... <GRIN>
Oh well... I think if my hot plate had less of a lip and I set the
temp lower or flipped the PCB over at the last second, it would work
great.
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