ST,
I realize the Staples paper is cheaper but if we could secure paper
that acts like copier paper and it dissoves away in even 30 seconds I
think it will make things easier. I have been following this thread
for over a year. I suspect certain toner and different machine account
for the different results. Some toner or the amount of heat in the
fuser causes the toner to stick to the paper for some people than
others. The Staples paper is the best bet at this time. The Spy Paper
I listed seems like it would be more like copier paper than the stuff
used in quilting. That page where the Email bounces looks like it
would have been the ticket.
John
--- In
Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Stefan Trethan"
<stefan_trethan@g...> wrote:
>
> On Tue, 16 Nov 2004 02:37:26 -0000, crankorgan <john@k...> wrote:
>
> >
> > Mike,
> > If the paper acts just like real paper until water hits it why do
> > you think it won't work? You are soaking your paper and pealing it
> > back. Having the paper dissolve would prevent the traces from being
> > pulled loose during the pealing operation. Am I missing something?
> > John
>
>
> No you are not missing something. except that you shouldn't peel the
paper
> if you have adhesion problems.
> Let it soak well (scratch the surface to make that faster) and then
peel
> the main bulk off, but LEAVE the last
> layer. rub that with your fingers or rubber.
> you can also rub away the whole paper, circular motions starting
center
> work best. "roll" it off.
>
> Mike is a notorious nay-sayer, ignore him ;-). If we would listen to
him
> nobody would ever have tried
> toner transfer in the first place, or making PCBs at home.
>
> ST