Yes! I just wanted pepole to see those steps one more time and
remember them. As simple as your method is, that is what makes it so
great. We had discussions here for days how to remove that paper with
suggestions going into etching the paper shreds away...
My paper leftovers were so stubborn that I could never lose them
completely, now matter how I rubbed.
I know there are many methods that people are very happy with- I
myself am tweaking the fuser thing out of curiosity, but a simple,
successful and economical combination for a TT (for me) is:
1. Staples paper mentioned before-Tom Gootee -he reported it here
first.
2. GBC H200 laminator with detailes how to modify it if you had to:
www.pulsar.gs they were first to report on that laminator, albeit
using their custom paper. However considering how much money I put
into this project I would have been better off buying his transfer
sheets. My credit goes to bringing the Staples paper and nd GBC
together and until I can buy a conductive ink printer on ebay, this
is it (that should be in, err, 20 years?).
3. Bob Weiss eraser method to remove the paper shreds from the etched
PCB.
4. There was something listed here to remove the laminated toner but
I don't remember what it was. The usual acetone is just too terrible.
Maybe it was Stefan's suggestion to use a paint thinner?
5. looking at the fuser after having it removed it is a very neat
idea for people who cannot get access to H200. The fuser looks very
robust.
6. There are many neat ideas that other people suggested but I cannot
recall any at this time.
Mike
--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Bob Weiss" <BWeiss@p...> wrote:
>
> You got the steps correct. I was surprised myself when it started
> taking it off with ease.. For long straight traces that had alot of
> paper still in between, I just rubbed with the traces and it it was
> off in no time. You don't even have to rub hard. The problem was
> trying to get your thumb to get in there.
>
> Let us know how you guys make out with it.
>
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "mikezcnc" <eemikez@c...>
> wrote:
> >
> > Bob,
> >
> > That is an asome suggestion, a true breakthru in the TT process.
I
> am
> > using Staples paper with GBC H200, soaking in cold water for an
> hour
> > and removal of paper was difficult and never complete. With your
> > suggestion I have no doubt I will be able to have better results.
> > Summarizing your observations:
> > 1. Warm water (not hot, but warm). Some people claimed that hot
> water
> > does it- I never believed that although I never tried it)
> > 2. Soap (dishwasher soap) - obvious now.
> > 3. Pencil eraser. - That is is a true innovation!
> >
> > Thanks for sharing, Mike
> >
> > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Bob Weiss" <BWeiss@p...>
> wrote:
> > >
> > > Last night I was working on a double sided board and I have
some
> > > traces that are 8mil apart. I too was having a problem with
> getting
> > > the paper out in between the traces and didn't want to rub too
> hard
> > > for fear of ripping up the toner. I let it soak in warm soapy
> water
> > > for about 1/2 hour and then used a pencil eraser (on the end of
> a
> > #2
> > > lead pencil) and rubbed where it wasn't comming off. To my
> surprise
> > > it works like a champ. It takes the paper right off and does no
> > harm
> > > to the traces. I did notice though that you HAVE TO DO IT while
> its
> > > wet. If you try doing it when its dry it will mess up the
toner.
> I
> > > was even able to get the paper out in the drill holes. I
usually
> > > just let them go and etch as is. But I looked at the board
under
> a
> > > magnifying glass and its perfect!! No problems with the traces
> at
> > > all and no paper! Try it out and let me know how it works for
> you.
> > >
> > >
> > >