Last night I was working on a double sided board and I have some
traces that are 8mil apart. I too was having a problem with getting
the paper out in between the traces and didn't want to rub too hard
for fear of ripping up the toner. I let it soak in warm soapy water
for about 1/2 hour and then used a pencil eraser (on the end of a #2
lead pencil) and rubbed where it wasn't comming off. To my surprise
it works like a champ. It takes the paper right off and does no harm
to the traces. I did notice though that you HAVE TO DO IT while its
wet. If you try doing it when its dry it will mess up the toner. I
was even able to get the paper out in the drill holes. I usually
just let them go and etch as is. But I looked at the board under a
magnifying glass and its perfect!! No problems with the traces at
all and no paper! Try it out and let me know how it works for you.
--- In
Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "gettingalongwouldbenice"
<gettingalongwouldbenice@y...> wrote:
>
> I've done some more ironing experiments. The toner is sticking to
the
> board very well in most areas. With a little practice, it should
be
> fine. Problem is that I can't get the paper off without tearing
off
> the traces. I've got a TQFP64 package with a bunch of parallel
runs
> with 5 mils between them. The toner looks fine, but the paper is
> stuck in the spaces between runs. I soaked it for an hour, but
can't
> get the paper out of the cracks without tearing off the runs.
> Larger traces with more space are no problem.
> Suggestions?
>
> Also, what do people use to touch up missing trace segments,
pinholes,
> etc.??? Lumocolor 313-2 would do it except that the pen tip is way
> too large. If I could find a pen that would do the touch up, I'd
just
> plot with the pen and be done with it.
>
> What I need is a finepoint system 0.1 pen with etch resistant ink.
>
> How do the various etchants affect different inks? I've only used
> FeCl. Are other etchants easier on the resist?
>
> Thanks, mike